Long Service Leave 2011 Final Leg: Dubai

7th July
It was six and a half hours to Dubai so I managed to watch 2 films (Rabbit Hole and The Tourist).  We transferred to Ibis Hotel in the centre of the city at about 1:30 am (local time) having lost 2 hrs in transit.  Next door is the Novotel and as they are the same company we have access to their pool and gym along with all our facilities.  Not sure we’ll have time to use much of it though as we really only have 2 full days here. So not many pics to share today unless you want to see us waiting in the hotel lobby, waiting at the airport, waiting on the plane.......In each of the countries we have travelled I could read my blog entries in English but all the tabs and links to log in or edit etc are in the local languages (Italian, French, Spanish).  Up to this point I have been able to work it out but these Arabic tabs have got be tossed. 

8th July
After breakfast in the hotel we ventured across the road to the City Centre Shopping Mall.  As soon as we opened the lobby door we were accosted by the heat.  By current averages today is cool at only 43 degrees, earlier in the week it was up to 50.  There is a wind but it is hot and carrying dust from the surrounding desert and a blanket of haze hangs over the city so not the best for taking photos.  Apparently this is typical for this time of the year, you only get clear days between Dec and May. We were really only shopping because it was in air-con comfort and came home with no new purchases.  In the afternoon we went on the city sights tour that was part of our stop-over package.  We were collected at 2:30 in a mini bus and delivered to the Burj Al Arib which is the world’s most expensive hotel with the most expensive cocktail.  Not sure that is something I would be bragging about if I was managing it. We followed the coast past the beaches (very bleak looking) and the Jumeirah Beach Park which is free and open to everyone, except on Mondays when it is open exclusively for women.  We visited Jumeirah Mosque then passed Union House where the agreement was signed between all the 7 Emirates to form a union.  Next was the old quarter where the first permanent homes were built from coral cut from the banks of the river and the fort which these days houses a very interesting museum.  

We took a water taxi across Dubai Creek and entered the spice and then gold souks. It is now 4 hours on tour and we are being plagued by Arab men who want us to follow them up to their apartments to sell us copy products labelled Armani, Rolex, Gucci, D&G ...........  the list goes on but we manage to dismiss them all.  At the last minute I found a pair of earrings I wanted and decided it was worth the haggle.  We were happy with the final price.  

Our guide has been terrific today, going out of his way to answer our questions and add a personal touch to the blurb which was otherwise tinged ever-so-slightly with very favourable comments about the Sheik and progress of Dubai.  Not surprisingly, no mention of the current economic crisis and if you take a close look at all the construction sites there is no action taking place.


We took a taxi back to the hotel and discovered that there is more than one Ibis Hotel in Dubai.  We will never know if we were ripped off or if it was an honest mistake but we did a lap of the city and retraced quite a bit of the afternoon’s tour to get back to our particular one.  After a shower we try the taxis again to take us to Burj Khalifa, the world’s tallest building at 174 floors.  Just as we arrived at Dubai Mall the fountain went into action which was an amazing show of coordinated water spouts, lights and music.  This takes place every 30mins, there is a different production each time and they last for about 5 mins. We had a quick bite to eat in the Mall then took the lift to the observation deck on the 124th floor of the tower.  The lift was so quiet and smooth the only way you knew for sure you were climbing was the pressure changes in your ear canals.  The views were amazing, something out of fantasy land and then the next fountain sequence took place; was wonderful to watch from above.  What a day full of amazing opulence and grandeur – it seems everything is done bigger and better in Dubai.  Eric put it very nicely when he compared the Sheik of Dubai to Louis XIV – ‘this is a modern day Versailles’.

9th July
We had a lovely sleep in this morning, not really planned but apparently what we needed.  Then we shopped in the mall across the road and took a joyride on the new metro which is fully computerised – no driver.  Noted that the train is serviced by the Serco Company which reminded us of Adrian who also works with one of their branches. Very efficient and a good way to see the city from a local perspective.  

We got off at Emirates Mall and took a look at the indoor ski slope!  Quite amazing, complete with chairlifts for ski runs and luge or toboggan runs for the kids.  Reminded us of Luke who is currently enjoying the snow in Victoria. Lots of very exclusive shopping here including Valentino, Gucci, Armani, De Beers, even Paspaley!  Unlike at the souks no copies here, this is the real thing.

In the afternoon we joined the Sundowner Tour which took us by 4wd through the Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve, all the drivers must be certified cowboys I think by the way they tackle the dunes. Our driver was Noas, a local Dubai native.  As I had the front seat I got to give him the full inquisition about living and working in Dubai.  We took a break to watch the sunset and then arrived at the Bedouin camp where we were given the traditional Arabian welcome which includes coffee, dates and shisha pipes.  Thankfully there is also a bar to quench our thirsts and even though this is a muslim country we were able to select beers and very satisfactory Italian wines. We were treated to a great 2 course meal and entertained by a belly dancer before spending a few minutes with all the lights extinguished to do some star gazing.  Not the best time of year to do this from here, you wouldn’t bother in Aust if there was so much haze.  By the time we got home it was already 10pm and time to pack in readiness for tomorrow’s early departure. 

We have enjoyed the experience of Dubai, but you wouldn’t come back.  It seems the sort of place where the surface is really new and shiny but false, and you don’t get a touch of the culture underneath. Tomorrow we will spend the whole day travelling so I’m going to sign off with this as the last post.  In Singapore from our Chinese Hotel at Robertson Quay on the riverbank we are planning to relax, have a massage or two, enjoy the food, sights and sounds we feel so familiar with. (Can you keep a secret? We also have job interviews with Peter Scarrott, the Principal of Morris Allen English). 
Looking forward to seeing you all soon.

Long Service Leave 2011 Fourth leg: Bordeaux to Paris

2nd July (Juillet)
We had planned to meet at reception at 8:30 so we could check out and catch the 9:15 train from San Sebastian to Hendaia.  It was all so efficient though, we found ourselves on an even earlier one which connected immediately with the 2.5 hr train to Bordeaux.  We were at the end of our journey by lunchtime.  We are staying at the Mercure Bordeaux Chartrons Hotel located in the former wine merchants' district which still has its Victorian facade like many of the other buildings in the area.  UNESCO have this city on their World Heritage List because of its beautiful architecture, public squares and gardens. While Chartrons is not the most glamorous area, our hotel is quite close the Garrone River and we headed there for lunch in the sunshine on the riverbank. 

Then we caught a very modern tram into the city centre and took a bus tour around town.  Very difficult not to doze off in the warm sunshine after the lunchtime Beaujolais but I did learn that Bordeaux was once one of Europe’s busiest and most lucrative ports transporting goods to Africa, swapping cargo there for slaves for the American market and bringing goods from there back to Europe.  It is the world’s major wine industry capital and hosts the world wine fair which just took place last week.

We saw lots of people out enjoying the open spaces, along the riverbank particularly. One really popular feature was the Water Mirror, a set of granite slabs covering about 500 sq m under which lies a computer controlled mechanism to supply water with many different effects in a fifteen minute cycle.  The paving is covered with two inches of water that turn the slab into a huge mirror in which the Place de la Bourse is reflected. Apparently in good weather and at night, when the facade of the palace is lit, the visual effect is captivating but today as we went passed there were too many people just having fun paddling on it.  We’ll have to walk by here at night.  

We were also impressed with a very original advertisement for a public car park, see pic below. 

After an afternoon siesta we took a bus back into town and explored the food and wine expo.  Apparently this exhibition sets up for a week in each location and rotates throughout the region.  Tonight we selected a venue that specialises in meat but we could have chosen gumbo, seafood or Moroccan to name a few.  On the way home I convinced the other 2 to call in at the water mirror for photos and once again there were plenty of people out enjoying the night.

3rd July

After breakfast at the hotel we walked to the waterfront where we found a produce market and by the time we got to the end of that it wasn’t much further to the centre of town.  Once again we saw all the beautiful fresh vegetables, meats, fish, cheeses and breads, Yum!  Docked alongside was one of those boats you can book to cruise the major rivers of Europe, very flash.  I’m already confident we will make our 10,000 step target today by the time we make it to town for a coffee!  There were lots of locals on the streets either eating at the cafes or enjoying all the public spaces so we sat and enjoyed some ‘people watching’ in Place de la Victoire. We deduce that this is what you have to do if you live in apartments. The square features an unusual red marble obelisk and two bronze turtles with bunches of grapes and wine variety names decorating the shells.  The local kids just can’t resist climbing on them.   

We wandered all over town and then caught a tram home after lunch in the square overlooking the beautiful Porte de Bourgogne which reminds me of the castle featured on Disney films. 

Eric had just connected online when Luke called on Skype.  Great to hear from him, he has an interview for the Fire brigade tomorrow morning so we were pleased to be able to send our best wishes and now have our fingers crossed (very hard to type in that position).  After a bit of a rest, and before we got entranced in the second set between Nadal and Djokovik in the Wimbledon GF, we walked to the Botanic Gardens.  Sadly, these look in need of a good shower of rain, France is still in drought, but there are still many people out enjoying them.  Making our way back to the tram stop we found ourselves very close to the food and wine expo again so we dropped in for a refreshing drink before returning home to prepare for dinner.  I didn’t think I liked cocktails but I have just discovered Mojito!  How refreshing all that crushed lime and mint is after all that walking.  We had dinner on the banks of La Garrone for the last time.  We are intrigued by the latest fashion which is to do away with ice buckets and use these cute, but pretty impractical, tabletop wine cooler bags here.

4th July
We have had a huge day.  After breakfast we checked out and the taxi driver who took us to Gare St Jean was fabulous; wanted to tell us all about the city etc and showed us how Google translator app works on his iphone.  We have to have one of those, although travelling in peak hour traffic in a taxi where the driver is intent on showing you how clever his translator is, makes me a little nervous.  He discovered how one small spelling error can be very embarrassing, which was very funny. 

We took the TGV (very fast train) to Paris so travelled through the Louire Valley but didn’t really get to see much (so quick), and arrived  at Gare Montparnasse in Paris 3 hrs later.  It was reasonably easy, if you overlook all the stairs, to get the Metro to Pernety where our hotel sits across the road.  Cosy is what you would call this hotel room, we are on the top floor so the ceiling slopes in on one side and immediately makes you want to duck your head.  The location is great but there is no air con and unfortunately we have arrived at 3pm when the room is probably at its hottest but hopefully that will be better when we return.
Our first point of call, after a very late lunch across the road at Cafe Metro, was the Tour Eiffel.  It would seem every other tourist in Paris decided to visit here this afternoon too!   The queues are enormous and we are told the wait will be about an hour but our options are limited so we decide to do it now, or not at all.  After a 1 hr wait on the ground, and another long wait at the next level we do eventually make it to the summit, and all concede it was well worth the wait.  The views are spectacular and we orientate ourselves with the famous landmarks of this city.

Back on ground level we head to the river and investigate the river cruises, there are so many to choose from!  We find there are seats available on a 1.5 hr dinner cruise departing in just half an hr so figure that was meant for us.  The dinner was lovely and It was very peaceful cruising up the Seine to round Ille de Cite and back around the replica of the Statue of Liberty.    Although it was 9pm when we pulled out, we left in sunshine.  During the course of the trip the sun set and the lights of the city turned on.  Very beautiful.  We took the subway home and had a nightcap at Cafe Metro,  our new local to end the day.

5th July

Oh, it was so hard to get started this morning.  After a few false starts we managed a traditional French breakfast of coffee and croissant with jam and then caught the metro across the road to Sacre Coeur.  There are so many amazing landmarks in Paris, but this is one we didn’t get to in ’86 and Eric is very determined.  From the subway you immediately start climbing uphill and all the way we were confronted by hagglers trying to get us to bet on the outcome of games (same as in ’86) or buy replicas of the Eiffel tour (same as in ’86) etc and also contribute to the ‘Deaf and Dumb’ afflicted.  We are becoming cynical, I know, but ‘fairs fair’. Eric did manage to buy a dapper hat to replace the one he left in Barcelona.  

From here we headed to Galleries Lafeyette in the heart of Paris on Boulevade Haussmann.  According to its media outlet, this is the world’s leading department store and its main store has a magnificent leadlight and steel dome that dates back to 1912, has to be seen to be believed.  The picture below doesn't do it justice. I managed to snap up a few mid-year bargains while we were there. 

We continued on to the Arc de Triomphe and then found some lunch in Avenue des Champes Elysees – I’m sure my accent is improving as I talk to myself and type.  (No one here to dispute me as Eric has already gone to bed). An afternoon attack of ‘the wearies’ descended so we walked on via the Grand Palace and the Hotel Invalides where we found lots of local gentlemen partaking in games of Petinque in the shady park.  

We caught the subway from here  back to our Hotel 55 in Montparnasse. Time to do some washing in the Laundromat just around the corner; fortunately we can just about watch the cycles progress from the cafe bar across the road.  We met up with Sandy who has done another bus tour today and had dinner in the local neighbourhood.

6th July

We tried to visit the Pompidou Centre this morning.  It was always going to be a quick visit, to be finished before a trip to Versailles in the afternoon, but we hadn’t factored in the long queues. There was at least a one hr wait so in the end we changed our minds and hoped we might get back there in the evening.  Instead we decided to walk through the beautiful Louvre gardens with the stunning 12th century palace as a backdrop, the Eye of Paris wheel, the pyramid in the forecourt and very comfortable chairs by the fountains.  We managed to find the best subway for this with the help of a local Parisienne woman who had been watching Eric studying the map and offered her recommendations.  She then guided him out of the correct subway exit and accompanied him all the way to the nearby gate.........  all to our amusement. He just can’t help himself.  Generally speaking though, we would have to say the people of Paris have left a much better impression on us this trip; they have all been very patient and most helpful. 

We then headed to subway station Pyramides and located the tour company we needed for the trip to Versailles, with time for lunch in a nearby cafe.  The trip, which only took about 45 mins, initially followed the Seine which was nice to track in daylight, and even included the tunnel where Di and Dodi met with their untimely deaths in ‘97.  When the palace was built Versailles was in the country but these days the urban spread of Paris means it is virtually a suburb only 20 kms from the centre. 

We spent 3 hours there, each focussing on areas of personal interest.  Eric really enjoyed the palace galleries having studied Louis XIV, the Sun King, at school.  Absolute opulence extraordinaire! 

I spent 2 of the hrs in the gardens.  When we were here in ‘86 the palace was closed for New Years Day and the gardens, while open, were covered in snow and nothing was flowering.  Today they are fabulous.  I’m amazed by the amount of maintenance and watering they must require but it is wonderful to see so many people enjoying the fountains, groves, formal French gardens, grand canal and statues.  And then there is the Trianon Garden Pavilion and Marie-Antoinette’s estate. There is too much to explore in one day but I managed quite a bit of it on foot before Eric and Sandy turned up in a tourist train.  I said I’d never be seen dead in one but I’m ready to sit down.  Don’t tell anyone.

It’s after 6pm when the bus returns and Sandy needs to make some bookings for the next few days and I am ready to rest so we agree to give the Pompidou Centre a miss.  On the very crowded subway home a woman warned Eric to be wary of the group of girls next to us who just managed to squeeze into the carriage before the doors shut.  We don’t know what alerted her but it wasn’t long before it became apparent that another passenger had had her bag opened in an attempt to pick pocket as everyone was being jostled to and fro with the movement of the train.  A snappily dressed businessman interrupted the action, so this time they were not successful and they got off at the next station, while he called the police and reported them on his mobile.  The girls would probably be well gone by the time they could respond but it was very fortunate we were not the targets this time.

Our last night in Paris and unfortunately I am feeling weary so we have an early night which is probably well over due.  Tomorrow we fly to Dubai at 3:30 pm.  

7th July

How things start speeding up when you turn for home; just like they did for me when I used to ride horses and anytime I these days when I walk with Ali.  We shared breakfast with Sandy at our local Metro Cafe and then she checked out to move to the Champs Elysee area.  We’ve really enjoyed her company and input over the last 2 weeks, although we appreciate different things when we travel, we have all been prepared to compromise.  

We checked out and waited for the shuttle bus to Charles de Gaulle airport.  And waited, and waited..... My nails took a beating as I became more and more stressed at being late for departure while the reception desk clerk was very relaxed about it all.  Eventually the driver did turn up half an hour late and then had to do 2 more hotel pick ups!  I was not happy standing in the queue at Air Emirates, but with all the staff they had on hand it moved quickly and we soon had the boarding passes in hand. 

Long Service leave 2011 Third leg: Spain - Barcelona, Juseu and San Sebastian

12th June (Junio)

Made our way straight to the station and caught the first train to the Spanish border.  Unfortunately there were 2 Spanish lads lying across our seats, apparently sleeping, which we had the audacity to ask to move.  Then one sniffed obscenely the whole way while the other laughed when I cracked my skull on the overhead luggage rack.  I’ve already decided I don’t like Spanish people.  And how is it that opinionated Americans never get sick of their own voice?  It was a long 2 hours in that carriage but the connection to Barcelona was a whole different story.  We shared a conversation with a delightful young Melbourne couple and by the time we stepped foot on Spanish soil I was in a much better mood.  We caught a taxi to our new apartment on Carrer de Sardinya, on the way passing right by Gaudi’s Casa Mila, and met our host David and his daughter Lucia who was able to do the translations.  I’ve changed my mind already about Spanish people, these 2 couldn’t have been more helpful and we shared lots of laughs as they gave us the low down on the city.  This apartment is very central, walking distance to the subway and a number of Gaudi’s works; you can see the Sagrada Familia Cathedral (the one adorned with fruit) from our window!  We have a well stocked kitchen, digital tv as well as satellite (but still all Spanish), wi-fi, a washing machine............and a bath.  

Because we are here for the week we spent a leisurely afternoon catching up on Barcelona research and planning the days ahead, reading, emails etc then walked to the local restaurant David had recommended. Pero! It is closed on Sundays so we ventured further and found a cantina with a very helpful and friendly waiter.  Managed to find our way home with directions help from some locals and just as we arrived fireworks were set off somewhere not too far away.  We were able see and hear them from home.  Will have to ask David if he arranged them on our behalf.

13th June
Another glorious blue sky day so we headed out to get subway tickets for the week which we found to be very reasonable at 25 Euro for as many trips as you like for 5 days.  The system is very easy to negotiate but of course we managed to try to re-enter a station we had already entered so had to slip through the exit gates the wrong way.  A local couple beside us were very concerned for us – we are not sure if they were warning us that we were being watched on security cameras or if it was our bags they were telling us to keep under closer control (as if we needed that advice).  Either way it was nice that someone cared, I told you the Spanish people were lovely.  
Our first trip was just to Sagrada Familia Cathedral but the crowds here were overwhelming so we’ll do this early tomorrow morning and then take a jump-on jump-off tour around the city sites.  We used the subway across town and also walked all over the lovely old quarter.  Tried my first Sangria at lunchtime and found its a great alternative to the Rose I’ve been having in France.  Eric has moved on to Sam Miguel lager which seems to be hitting the spot.  

Saw the statues in La Rambla, the protesters in Placa de Catalunya, the Barcelona Cathedral and visited the Picasso Museum.  Weary by now we came home and the in-house chef decided he was ready to cook up a Spanish meal so we ventured back out to the local supermarket.  Problem is this supermarket and every other one we found were closed.  Is that a Monday thing?  Who knows.  We found a fruit and veg shop so its Spanish frittata tonight. 

14th June
Here’s a warning for you all:  If you drink Sangria at lunchtime with the sun shining on the glorious marina at the Barcelona Harbour after riding all around town on a top deck tour you will soon fall asleep!  Well at least that’s what happened to me. We started the day at the Sagrada Familia Cathedral as planned and even though we were there just after opening hours the queue was already around the block.  Never mind, we are a patient pair from the NT for whom standing in queues is quite a novelty.  A good opportunity for people watching.  This is a phenomenal structure that Gaudi took over not long after it was started and he had always planned for the construction to take 200 yrs, so was never going to see it finished.  While he left exhaustive plans and models of his work he didn’t leave a complete construction blueprint as he wanted input from future generations.  Not only a brilliant mathematician and designer, what a visionary artist he was!  Despite the civil war, when drawings and models were destroyed, construction has continued, all funded by donations and visitor fees, and is expected to be completed in 2025.  The enormous pillars supporting the structure rise up and branch like tree trunks and it was really interesting to visit the museum display underneath which features how Gaudi’s study of nature is integrated throughout his work. 

As if that wasn’t enough to absorb for one day, since we have already bought the tickets, we now take off on a Bus Touristic tour of the city.  Despite the shady plain trees and Jacaranda in full bloom, I spent too much time in the sun without a hat (because I lost it dashing along a train platform a few days ago). We’ve now added even more items to our ‘must do’ list before we leave here.  Finally we stop for lunch at the Marina and enjoy a seafood lunch, no wonder I was falling asleep at the table.

We are really impressed by how well planned this city appears to be, how orderly the people move (always walking on the right) and the fabulous recycling system.  The subway is proving to be a fabulous way to move from point to point and musicians are often playing as you approach the platforms which is quite beautiful. 

15th June
So there we were last night at dinner discussing the merits of Cezanne, Picasso, Gaudi – who would have thought?  And tonight we could add Joaquim Mir Trinxet and Xavier Nogues to the mix as they were our two favourites at the National Museum of Catalunya Art that we visited this afternoon.  

But I am getting ahead of myself.  First we spent the morning wandering around Parc Guell.  Fortunately we found the wonderful outdoor escalators which made a big indent in the number of steps you climb just to get to the top entrance, but even so we have definitely conquered the 10,000 step aim for today.   Our climb presented us with wonderful panoramic views of the city and out to the Mediterranean which made it all worthwhile.  In the park we found the typically colourful and unusual Gaudi architectural designs around every corner including fountains, squares and the room of 1000 columns.  The busking guitarists; one playing flamenco, another playing blues further on, just added to the atmosphere.  Gaudi’s works integrate so easily into the landscape, I guess because he uses nature as his inspiration and so draws on these natural shapes and patterns.   By the time we left ship-loads (care taken not to make spelling mistakes) of tourists we arriving so we made a hasty departure and enjoyed a lunch break.  

And here's the National Museum of Catalunya Art. The stunning building is situated on Mount Montjuic, in beautiful gardens and overlooking the city. An example of Joaquin Mir Trinxet on the left and Xavier Nogues on the right.

We finished up back in the old quarter near Las Ramblas looking for a flamenco venue, which we did eventually track down, and have booked for Fri night, our last night in Barcelona.

16th June
Washed a load of clothes late yesterday and discovered the biggest fear of living in these apartment buildings.  They not only have a lift well (fortunately) but also another similar well which is accessed only through the kitchen window and is perfect for hanging your washing on a fixed line.   It even has pulleys on the furthest lines for easy manipulation.  But my hands were shaking as I pegged out the washing knowing that if I dropped an article I would never find it again.  I started today bringing it all in with just as much trepidation but managed not to drop anything. 
We went to the local market this morning and Eric got to taste some of the very expensive ham where the pig is fed an exclusive diet of acorns, free-ranging in the oak forests.  We are not sure how they judge the number of acorns but it is very highly valued.  Pigs are excellent at finding truffles too but apparently dogs are preferred by truffle hunters because dogs won’t actually eat them, where pigs will.   We eventually found the post office to get prices on sending a box home and Eric found a few bargains at a liquidation sale.  The market was again overflowing with fresh produce, all absolutely perfect in shape and colour.  I am starting to be very suspicious that the produce is all genetically modified but it does taste fabulous.  Prices are unbelievably cheap even in the supermarkets for example today I bought 4 x single serve yogurts for 56 cents.  That’s 56c total for 4, not each!  And a very decent bottle of red wine is about AUD$5, long neck of beer AUD $1.60.  Our alcohol consumption has not lessened but we are eating a very sensible Mediterranean diet. 

We’ve managed to catch up with a few friends and family back home through Skype this week which has been great as we have found our email is not reliable from this connection.  Have discovered that Darwin is experiencing a cold snap.  We were thinking of you ‘Darwin lot’ as we spent the afternoon at the beach cycling along the esplanade in our hats, t-shirts, shorts and thongs.  While our thongs were on our feet, most other people seemed to have them around their hips.  I don’t think the ‘Sun Smart’ message has got through here at all as there were a lot of people looking like pink prawns on the train ride home. Barcelona is listed first among the Top 10 Beach Cities in the world which, as Australians who know their beaches are best, we think is slightly over-rated but at least they have sand.  At short intervals they also have lifesaving, bike hire, beach volleyball and playground equipment, fitness stations, Info Centres, First Aid, Cafes and toilets/showers right at hand.  But does any of that matter compared with what we have to offer?  Ooh but you should see the leisure-craft moored at the marinas!

17th June
This morning we posted home another box and then visited CosmoCaixa, Barcelona’s Science Museum.  It has an enormous variety of content and an innovative layout where you enter on the 5th floor, at the same level as the canopy of a tree from the Amazon, and make your way down to the roots to begin exploring all the exhibitions. We found the Amazon Forest, geological and recycling displays the most interesting.  This city has by far the most thorough recycling system we have seen with 5 separate colour-coded collections (biowaste, packaging, paper, glass and other waste). It seems there are bins for every colour on every street.  At the beach yesterday there was an enormous solar panel installation which reminded us of all the wind powered generators we saw in the south of France on our way here.  It’s pleasing to see these alternative power sources in use. Lots of the displays at the museum were interactive and we were amused by the wonder in the eyes of some very young visitors.  When we both dozed off to sleep in the Planetarium we agreed it was time for coffee!  

Eric was going to visit Barcelona’s Camp Nou next, home of the World Champion Barca Soccer Club. The stadium seats almost 100,000, making it the largest in Europe and according to the literature your visit includes the museum, trophy room and replays of the clubs greatest victories.  Meantime, I was going to have some unaccompanied shopping time.   But in the end Eric decided to give it a miss – perhaps he was worried we would have to send another box home!
In the evening we headed back into the city centre for a tapas dinner and flamenco show.  There were so many people out enjoying the balmy evening in the square we chose to have dinner. There were wandering minstrels playing Spanish guitar and later a girls choir to entertain the crowds.   The Flamenco show was high energy and high passion.  Just a small venue that seated only about 50, by the end of the show there were 7 people on the stage.   The speed of the guitarist’s fingers was amazing and the only other instrument was a beat box drum.  The 3 women and a young girl took it in turns to sing or dance and were always clapping to a complicated beat.  We were so impressed by the precision and passion expressed.  What a great way to spend our last evening in Barcelona.

18th June
Can’t believe this time a month ago we arrived in Rome.
At preset I am sitting in what they call the rock room of Casa Arriba.  Arriba literally means above, so picture us in the house at the top of the hilltop village.  It is a short 50m to the absolute top which is our backyard and believe it or not we also have a garden room up there!  Wait till you see these pictures, they won’t do it justice.  We have 360 deg panoramic views of the Pyrenees, even glaciers and snow covered slopes.  Magic at sunset this evening!  This house was built in the 1700s but thankfully has been modified with electricity and glazing.  The key to the front door is as big as my hand!  It faces north so in the morning our kitchen and terrace will be bathed in sunshine.  

On this same floor off the entrance we have a bathroom and the rock room so named because the south wall is the rock of the cliff and the north wall opens through French doors onto the terrace. It is a very comfortable reading/blogging room.   Upstairs are the three bedrooms and a very unusual bathroom.  I think we will be very comfortable here; Eric is very happy with his large, well-appointed kitchen and the aromas of frying garlic and onion are already in the air.

This morning we woke early and took the train to Barcelona Central Station, funny how it felt so familiar.  We caught the connection to the airport station and then the shuttle bus to Terminal 1. All going well until we found the long, slow queue for the hire car we had booked.  Eventually we were handed the keys to our red VW Golf and with some trepidation Eric handed them to me to drive out of Barcelona.  He must have had great faith in his navigation skills because neither of us had great confidence in my driving skills on the rhs of the road.  Fortunately I had to do about 4 laps of the car park before I could exit and was let loose on the streets, so I had a bit of practice!  I’m sure Eric was doing the ‘white-knuckle ride thing’ you see at Luna Park but to his credit he didn’t say a thing. I actually found the changing of gears with my right hand more trouble than remembering to stay on the right, indicate with the stick on the left etc.  Once on the A2 freeway it was pretty easy sailing if you kept out of the far left lane where they fly by, well over the speed limit.  The photo below shows me looking relaxed, Not! 

About 2 hrs later  I pulled up at a roadside Cantina and we joined the locals for lunch at about 2pm.  The waitress was very helpful despite our appalling Spanish and we got more than we bargained for.  When I thought she was convincing me that my Moussaka was beef she was actually confirming that I had ordered Moussaka for first course and beef steak and chips for second course.  I could hardly refuse it when it was served but goodness, I will be more careful in future. 

Eric was behind the wheel for the next leg into the hills. He navigated about 15 roundabouts without a problem and only once turned into the left hand side of the road, which he has done correctly all his driving life, until today.  Fortunately he quickly corrected without incident.  When we had been driving for about 4 kms up a one-lane road of potholes, with the occasional chunk of concrete, we were starting to wonder if we really had made a good decision to spend a week here.  Fortunately around the next corner, just 300m ahead was the village of Juseu (pronounced something like ‘who say you’) and we were immediately charmed.  We found our hosts who were extremely hospitable and enjoyed a welcoming drink on their garden terrace before being shown around Casa Arriba. We ducked down to Graus, (love that name) just 12 kms away, to buy supplies for the next few days and fortunately the Tourist Info office was open at 7pm on a Sat evening (strange opening hrs here in Spain) so we now have maps of the walking trails and historical sites.

19th June
Awoke to the sound of birdsong and with the sun streaming into our bedroom.  Although a sleep-in would have been good, curiosity got the better of us and before long we were on the sunny terrace with our binoculars. Our first sighting of a vulture! How fitting that it chose to rest on a site close to the local cemetery.  After breakfast we ventured out, first to the rocks above us for the outlook and then through the village and along a spur for the views and birds.  So many little birds! 

As arranged, we met at the home of Kee’s and Weip’s (our Dutch hosts) for coffee about 11am and chatted about the rental, the village, the surrounding sites and best places to eat in the district as they will be away for a few days.  When I offered to water their potted plants for them they offered us veggies and herbs for the taking.  Conversation drifted off onto gypsies, the economic crisis, nourishing the soul, soccer.......    we got back home at 3pm!  
After a simple lunch we walked along the terraces of olive and almond trees and down to the communal veggie garden.  This is one of the two natural spring water sources the village relies on.  Once there were 300 people living here and it never let them down so we are pretty confident we won’t have any problems with water supply now there are only about 35 people here.  The younger generations are moving out because farming is hard work and it is difficult to access all the benefits of the 21st century here. (Note: we cannot access wi-fi from the Casa Arriba side of the mountain so will only be able to upload updates to this when we visit bars in the neighbouring villages. Any excuse to visit a tapas bar!  No bar or shop here at all). In contrast Kees and Weip, originally from Holland, love the opportunity to live in closer harmony with nature than is possible in crowded Amsterdam.  

On returning from our walk we took drinks and reading material to the garden room.  This is a detached building, actually on the other side of the road.  It only has 3 walls, the fourth side is open to the fresh air and wonderful vista.  We lolled on the lounges while sipping beer or sangria until the sun began to move behind the mountains and it was time to pull on long sleeves.  A glorious day in the mountains.

20th June
When we were sitting in our courtyard in Tuscany we thought we had it all.  Then when we moved on to the little apartment on the top floor in Aix en Provence we thought it just couldn’t get any better.  And now we are sitting on our patio of Casa Arriba, the house at the top of the village, overlooking the Pyrenees and we can’t believe we could ever have a better view.  How lucky are we?
Today we went to the fresh produce market in Graus and then attempted to walk from Torres del Obispo to Castarlenas, an abandoned village about a 2 hour return walk.  From our Casa Arriba we can actually see both these villages, that’s how high our home is.  Problem is we could find the start of the walk but not one other marker to assure us we were on trail.  We faltered back and forth for some time and then decided that since it was now getting close to the hottest part of the day it was pretty silly to start such a walk even if we did find it, so like the village, we abandoned the plan. 

Instead we decided to go to Barbastro for lunch.  The road took us along the bottom of a canyon where the cliffs were outstanding and the water that milky-blue you get from melting glaciers.  Kees had recommended a restaurant, El Rincon, where everything on the menu was not only good but typically of this region and great value.  Seems he is correct.  They only have a set price menu. For 14 Euro you select a 3 course meal with complimentary bottle of local wine.  The Spanish eat their main meal at lunchtime between 1 and 3pm and then have a siesta that lasts until about 5pm.  Vegetables are served as a first course and meat as the second course.  Eric worked hard with the phrase book interpreting the menu and we were very happy with our selection.  Only problem was driving home after sharing a whole bottle of red wine.  

We retired to the garden room to read and both dozed off soon after.  About 5pm we went for a walk to look for birds in the direction of the main spring that feeds this village.  We started on the village walking path that has probably been in existence since the medieval days then skirted wheat fields, almond orchards and olive groves all with plenty of birds.  I picked some pretty wildflowers along the way for our balcony, some I recognise, but can’t remember the names of, from our Cobram cottage garden but also found wild rosemary and thyme (and Pattison’s Curse of all things).  Saw our first Hoopoe today. And here we are, after 9pm on our balcony in shorts and t-shirts waiting for the sun to go down on another great day.  Eric took a photo of last light about 10pm.

(Note: Sandy called from Barcelona, we were due to meet her tomorrow but the airlines have lost her baggage, so we await further updates with our fingers crossed that all will be fine by the morning).

21st June

Message from Sandy confirms the baggage is still lost so she is going off to buy a change of clothes and a new bag before catching the train from Barcelona to Lleida (Lerida) to meet us.  I went over to Kees and Weip’s place to water their pots as promised and then we decided to drive to Barbastro again because the views were just spectacular yesterday and we need to take some more pictures.  This time we stopped at every opportunity to have a proper look and cross the footbridges where available.   We arrived in Barbastro at about midday and found it all shut down.  Eventually found the Tourist Office where it was explained to us that today is a local festival day, but all the festivities had taken place last night, typical.  Not to worry, our favourite restaurant is open so we plan to enjoy another 3 course meal and bottle of wine for 14 Euro ea, what better way to kill some time.  We've begun taking translation notes on a serviette of all the dishes on the menu.

The funny thing was, we were feeling pretty clever because we had with us the notes Eric had translated yesterday from the menu. Today we would look and sound quite confident making our selections.   Approaching the door we saw our waiter replacing the daily menu on the noticeboard and thought they must have a new one each day. Foiled again! But it turned out to be just a new copy of the same so we did in fact get it right.   Although a siesta sounds like a top idea we now drive on to Lleida, which is only 40 mins from here, to meet Sandy at the railway station.  She is an amazingly resilient traveller!  We all agree we will laugh about this one day – but today is not the day.  She is sick, tired, sunburnt and has lost her luggage.  When we get home to Casa Arriba about an hour later we share a glass of wine on the balcony and things start to feel a little better. 

We had dinner out there as well, it is warmer this evening but also cloud cover and some lightening flashes so perhaps tomorrow will be indoors with a good book.  We haven’t had one of those yet.

22nd June
Well we woke to sunny skies, no sign of rain so we walked the beginning of the trail to Torres del Obispo.  It’s 2 hrs each way so we just did the first hr and then returned. It took us down to the valley floor and across the creek, we passed a number of drystone ruins and heard lots of birds in the dense trees, but mostly we couldn’t find them.  I did find an orchardist’s ladder by the side of the track at one point, must have fallen off a trailer sometime.  Seemed to me someone should make good use of it; so I carried it all the way home even though it was almost all uphill.  Eric thought I was mad but it looks good in the rock room.  Very authentic.

 When we got home we were greeted with the news that Sandy’s bags have been found.  Thank goodness!  But, they are going to send them to her Australian address!  Not much help.  Throughout the day she has been trying to establish how they can get them to us but they don’t accept our address and tomorrow is a bank holiday so apparently there are no couriers and all this means I don’t think we can get the bags until Monday - but we won’t be here by then.  What a saga!


Not to waste the day getting frustrated we drove to Roda de Isabena, another old village where there was once a monastery, now converted into a restaurant.  The whole village appears to be being restored and the restaurant had a lovely atmosphere.  It had been recommended by Kees and he suggested pork and chocolate sauce which sounds outrageous but you have to try these things once.  It was quite nice but rich and I haven’t eaten a thing since.  Once we returned home it was straight to the sun room for a relaxing read and siesta - as you do. 

23rd June
We had to move in from the patio last night because it started to rain, it was only gentle but later there was also thunder and lightning when we went to bed.  We played some hands of ‘Ricketty Kate’ but it is probably best left unmentioned....  The morning was overcast but good walking weather so we tried again to find the trail to abandoned Castatlenas.   With helpful gestures and commands of ‘directo’  from locals this time we found the right road and drove within about a half hr walk.  It was very pleasant to be cool while we walked and thrilled to spot partridge to add to our bird list.  The village is all ruins; looks like it was deserted 100 yrs ago but apparently the last 8 inhabitants left only in the 70s.  There is no evidence of power or town water supply here so life would have been pretty rustic by general standards of the day.  How quickly things fall to rack and ruin when not inhabited.  Spotted some lovely old tiles that would look good at Casa Arriba but thought better of bringing them back (one ladder is enough).  When we were at Barcelona looking at all the frescoes and painted altar pieces in the museum I was wondering where they were all from.  Why were they not in churches?  Now I think I know.  Every small village has at least one church, chapel or hermitage and once the village is abandoned the valuable relics would be desecrated or stolen. This parish church was 16th century. 

While we have been away Sandy has organised for her bags to be delivered to Madrid so she should be reunited with them on Sunday.  After watering the plants at Kees and Weips we drove to Barbastro  for lunch at our ‘local’ where the waiters know us now.  Again we order something different from the menu and enjoyed it.  We drove to Alquezar which is built above a canyon with spectacular views from streets leading up to the imposing castle.  An Egyptian vulture (new sighting), was soaring over the canyon keeping an eye on everything that moved, including the boat-loads of tourists who were traipsing up the steps to the village from the floor of the canyon after white water rafting.  

On the way home we called in to Barbastro to check out the shops, as they reopened about 5pm, but didn’t find them very inspiring.  A tasty potato and leek soup was all we needed for dinner.

24th June

Woke to a lovely sunrise that developed into a clear sky, we can see the glaciers and snow again on the far horizon.  We are very conscious that all our colleagues in the NT are just finishing week 11 at school and about to start their holidays.  Walked on the salt trail towards Aguinaliu for about an hour in the morning and then retraced our steps home for breakfast.  Later we drove to this village, called the Eagle Nest because it has many of these amazing houses called casas colgadas ("hanging houses") which are built right up to the cliff edge.  To be honest though there are many similar structures in Juseu, we are becoming a bit blaze. 

We drove on to Lake Baranosa Resort for lunch on the shores via La Puebla de Castro. The menu was simple – hamburgers, but that was fine on this sunny afternoon watching the other tourists sunbaking and canoeing.  At one point I did overhear myself call out “Look , 2 great tits” but I was referring to the feathered kind in the trees nearby, not the sunbathers. In either case, Eric responded as expected.

We reached Graus too early to buy groceries, the shops don’t re-open until after 5pm, so Sandy and Eric got ‘online’ at Lleida Hotel, while I walked up to the Basilica of the Virgin of La Pena, an imposing Gothic-Renaissance style temple built on a big rock called Pena del Morral. From here you overlook the township and rivers.  On my way back to meet them I found Plaza Mayor with its beautiful 19th century painted facades so I encouraged the other 2 to move here, they were pretty frustrated with the wi-fi (locally referred to as wiffy) here anyway.  

We sat outdoors at the Casa del Baron Restaurant, for drinks until the shops re-opened.  With another boot-load of food and wine we returned to our Casa for dinner and later another game or two of cards.  While we have loved it here we are all looking forward to having better access to wi-fi in Madrid.

25th June
Oh dear!  Might have tried too hard to empty the Sangria bottle last night.  Needed to stay in bed a little longer today until my head feels better.  This morning light is so strong!  While it is hard to sleep in we are blessed with another crystal clear view of the mountains.  We opted out of the usual morning walk and made a joint decision not to drive to Serraduy to eat dinner at the Michellen rated restaurant as planned last night. As it turned out we had to rush to Graus to get more supplies before the shops shut at 1pm.  That’s how slow our morning was.  We are eating up all the leftovers now as tomorrow we move on to Madrid.  Each day as we head off out of town we have been dropping our rubbish in the bins and it gets embarrassing when all the bottles smash so loudly.  We keep thinking the locals must understand we are 'the Australians’, a rare thing here in Juseu.  We spent the afternoon either on the bed, in the rock room or in the garden room.  All positions offered cool, horizontal options in the heat of the day.  I did try twice today to get in to the church with its very special ceiling but locating the ‘key’ is too difficult as none of the locals speak any English although they do try to be helpful.  Including the lovely gentleman pictured below who was so pleased when we eventually established I was not a Hollander but an Australian.  Apparently my pronunciation of ‘llave’ (Spanish for key) isn’t even close.  When I showed him our key and acted out opening the church door he just shook his head in amazement. 

In the evening Weip and Kees joined us on our porch for drinks.  They have had a lovely break for a few days on the coast with their 10yr old son Milan.  We shared all our recent experiences; lost luggage, ant invasion in the kitchen, bird observations, visits to local towns in the region and explained how the ladder came to be in the rock room.  Eric and Sandy are now playing a very competitive game of Yatzee so I might just finish my blog.  

26th June

We packed up this morning and for the first time thought it was a good thing Sandy was without her bags as it made the trip to Madrid more comfortable in our little car.  I’m not sure we would have all fitted in otherwise!  I drove the first leg - a stategic move that meant Eric copped the busy Madrid end. Barcelona was enough for me last week.  While it was a pity to be leaving Juseu and its million dollar views we are looking forward to new adventures.  Not to mention Sandy being eager to reconnect with her luggage!  Our trip on the A2 highway skirted Huesca and Zaragoza and after 5 hrs we arrived in Madrid.  The drive was really interesting, the countryside changing continually while reminding us of open spaces, landscapes and colours of Broken Hill, Coober Pedy etc.  We passed lots of statues of bulls all the way and many wind farms too.  

With about 10 mins to go to our final destination at Atocha Station the GPS (commonly referred to as Felicia to this point) ran out of battery power – cigarette lighter fuse was gone - and we were in deep shit (pardon).  Felicia let us down badly at the critical stage and language was not polite. The quick thinking Sandy used her smartphone mobile to access maps, pinpoint our location and direct us to the destination.  Thank goodness! And Eric navigated his way through some pretty torrid intersections including one roundabout where we had to go left with 5 lanes of traffic flowing.  How good it felt not to be behind the wheel! 

At check in to the Catalonia Atocha Hotel we found Sandy’s luggage had been delivered. At last! It has been six days and she has coped amazingly well. This is a bit flash (love the lobby) but in such contrast to the rustic charm of Casa Arriba! After unpacking we had a quick bite of lunch then checked out the big Atocha Railway Station nearby where the car needed to be returned.  It was a relief to think our driving days were over.  While we couldn’t have done without a car this last week it has always been a bit of a challenge driving here, so now we can relax and just be passengers again on buses, trains and planes.

This evening we ate at a local restaurant and then returned to our rooms to catch up online with email, news – and blogs of course. 

27th June

After a great sleep we woke early, eager to see if anyone was available to chat on Skype.  Just to add to our continuing frustration with technology since we left home we couldn’t sign in until I had uninstalled and reinstalled the program.  By now it is time to head out for breakfast and ride one circuit on the touristica bus.  We found this helped us get our bearings in Barcelona but this one is not so clearly marked on the very sketchy map so it wasn’t really that helpful.  It did take us past most of the beautiful landmarks in the city though which were lovely to see from the open top deck in the morning sunshine.  We are astounded by how many beautiful buildings and sculptures adorn this city.  The last picture in this montage below is the post office, how beautiful is that?  We have circled the points of interest; shopping areas, museums, parks and palace etc for return visits. 

While Sandy then went shopping Eric and I headed towards the Museo del Prado but unfortunately it is closed one day of the week.  Guess what, that would be Mondays!  Not to worry the beautiful, but very formal, Botanic Gardens are next door so we ambled through them and on to Museo Reina Sophia.  

This is regarded as the city’s best contemporary art museum.  We particularly appreciated how cool it was inside this old building that began life as a hospital in the 1700s.  Outside in the square it is well over 30 degrees already.  We saw works by Picasso, Dali and Kandinsky to name a few.  Time passed quickly and by 2:45 we are well and truly ready for lunch. We certainly are getting used to the Spanish daily meal times. 

We had planned to meet up with Sandy at 5pm to do the second loop on the tour bus but due to the poor layout of the map we missed each other and just decided to each do it separately and meet up after.  Perhaps we should have done it even later because at 5:30 it was 38 degrees!  Too hot to enjoy!  Once we had completed the lap we headed for the cooler subway and home for a cold shower and refreshment.   We returned to the streets at about 9pm to find dinner and ended up down near Atocha Station again.  Food and wine are still amazingly cheap by our standards.

28th June

While Sandy took a train to Toledo we headed to Puerta del Sol which is the absolute centre of the radial road network that makes up the city.  Every New Year there is a terrific crowd here as this is where the official clock chimes the hour for the eating of 12 grapes to mark the New Year, a tradition we took part in many years ago when we had a Mexican exchange student sharing our camp on the Murray River. She convinced us we also had to shoot tequila, no mention of that here in the guidebooks. There is also a fairly small statue of a bear and a tree which is the heraldic symbol of Madrid. 

We checked out another Flamenco Show schedule and some shops then caught the metro to Plaza de Espana where I bought a hat to replace the one I lost in Italy at a small market. There’s also a fabulous bronze statue of Don Quixote and Sancho Panza, a tribute to Saavedra, the famous Spanish author, poet and playright. 

We crossed the road and walked through the gardens to the Temple of Debod , an ancient Egyptian temple which once stood near Aswan but was gifted to Madrid after Spain helped save some of the monuments and archeological sites when the Great Dam of Aswan was constructed in 1960.  All the internal walls are etched with Egyptian carvings which include the Roman Emperors Augustus and Tiberius.

After lunch we visited the Museo del Prado, considered to be among the world’s greatest museums and with the finest collection of European art.  It is massive! The collection contains around 7,600 paintings and 1,000 sculptures, not to mention the drawings and prints.  I’m overwhelmed by the number of galleries to visit even though they have dispensed with any artworks later than the 19th century.  I retire to the cafe for a cup of tea while Eric continues to the next floor. 

On our way home we wandered through a small portion of Park del Retiro. A park dedicated to the retirees of Madrid with a lake, kiosks and tables for playing chess, dominoes and cards.  Beautifully laid out with shady tress and walkways but it’s a bit too hot to enjoy this afternoon.  

One last stop on our way home was to admire the CaixaForum post-modern art gallery, just from the outside.  It is an interesting building which appears to float above the ground, the rusted red top floors contrasting with the green of a vertical garden bordering the square.  

Once home we immediately turn on the air-conditioning and relish the cool shower.  We went to the lively Chueca district for dinner and finished with a mystery nightcap they offered us. Their only explanation was that it was herbal???? The effects not strong enough to convince Eric to purchase a pair of these bespoke shoes. 

29th June

Our last day in Madrid.  Eric and Sandy head to the very opulent Royal Palace.

Meanwhile I go to Atocha Renfe Station to buy the train tickets for tomorrow’s trip to San Sebastian and we plan to meet up later in Plaza Mayor.  We had agreed to travel on the 1pm train but the only seats available are on the 8am one so it will be an early start in the morning.  I caught the metro to Plaza de Colon and then walked down the centre of Paseo de Recoletos, a wide boulevard with a central walkway where there is a great public art display, cafes and shady Plane trees, to Plaza de Cibeles.  I know this busy intersection, it’s the 5 lane roundabout Eric had to negotiate a few days ago.   From here I tried to contact Eric to say I was on my way to Plaza Mayor but discovered my phone had died.  What are the chances I’ll be able to bump into him in this city of more than 6 million people?  Not good.  So to console myself I explored the shops between Puerta del Sol and Plaza Mayor, then headed home to recharge the phone.  

I found Eric had arrived just 10 mins before me, so in fact there was a chance we could have bumped into each other, each taking photos of the beautiful facades, artists and living statues who perform in the square, but it didn’t happen.  We ventured out in the local neighbourhood for lunch then Eric got a haircut.  He certainly got good value for money; I’ve never seen it so short, even in the RAAF days.  Then we spent the afternoon watching Tomic play Djokovic in the Wimbledon QFs.  He did well.

In the evening we all went back to Peurta del Sol to see Carmen performed as a Flanenco ballet.  When we booked we thought we were going to another straight flamenco show but this turned out to be the complete Carmen story performance.  It was not what we expected but none the less very passionate and professional. After dinner in the area we made our way home and packed for an early start tomorrow.  

30th June

Last day of June, last day of the financial yr, only 7 more days left in Europe.  We checked out early and caught a taxi to the station.  I’m feeling quite fragile after little sleep with fever and chills.  Had to find a blanket at 3am and then double it over at 4am even though the temp in the room reads 24 deg.  Not sure what is wrong but after a sleep on the train I do start to improve.  Can’t tell you a thing about the trip to San Sebastian, I missed most of it.  We checked in to the Barcelo Costa Vasco Hotel then in the afternoon caught a bus to the city centre and orientated ourselves.  Once again there is a charming old centre (Parte Vieja) that was once surrounded by walls and then the newer part that has grown up around it.  We did a discovery walk through the old centre where we found narrow streets filled with bars and shops, the beautiful Constitution Square (with all its numbered balconies for the days when it doubled as a bullring) and a number of churches.  

We left Sandy watching local kids playing 5-a-side soccer in the square and continued up Monte Urgull which gave us great viewpoints of the bay below.  On the way up is the 12th century Mota Castle which once provided the town’s defence and at the very top is the imposing Sacred Heart Monument.  After the challenge of walking that hill we look for refreshment and discover San Sebastian is the home of Pintxo bars (I still don’t know how to pronounce that).  It’s developed as a Basque version of tapas where the bar is laden with quite complex finger food and you select what you want; stuffed smoked salmon rolls with roasted peppers, goats cheese with caramelised onion, etc. There are more than 20 different selections on offer at every bar.  Very yummy!  

But we are looking for a real dinner after not really eating properly all day and we cannot find a restaurant in the whole place – just more and more pintxo bars.  Eventually we leave the old area and find what we are looking for, then catch the bus back to the hotel. 

1st July (Uztailaren Basque translation)

The sun is shining and the last of the clouds are moving inland as we head into town this morning.  We walked along the boulevard to the bike hire outlet near the mouth of the river and the first thing we notice is the fresh smell - you know that salty, seaweed smell you only get at the ocean.  We spotted 2 men poking about the rocks with probes and not long after one of them had caught an octopus, gutted it, smashed it on the rocks a number of times to tenderize it and had it in the bag.  Just like we’d seen the fishermen do in Greece all those years ago. 

We cycled to the end of the surf beach and back to the railway station where we got the information about trains to Bordeaux for tomorrow.  In this newer area we found more beautiful bridges and buildings and we are really impressed by the bike lane provision all over town.  From here we followed Paseo de la Concha all the way to the end of the beautiful bay.  There are so many people already out enjoying this gorgeous horseshoe bay and morning sun. There are a number of boats in the harbour but not the huge, pretentious ones we saw along Cote d’Azure in Southern France even though once again we are in a playground of the rich and famous (the Gastronomic Guide points out that there are more Michelin starred restaurants here than anywhere else in Europe).  We passed by La Perla Spa right on the waterfront, built to serve the royal visitors of the early 20th century, and Miramar Palace on the other side, where they resided. At the far end found the famous sculpture cemented into the rocks of the point where wild seas often crash right over. Called Comb of the Wind, corrosion by wind and salt water was all part of the original design concept.  We retraced our tracks back to the old port and then followed the path all the way around Monte Urgull which forms the point at the other end of the bay.  

This has been a great way to see all the sights of San Sebastian and by the time we return the bikes after 3 hours we are ready to find more comfortable seats and have some lunch.  Most of the shops haven’t opened yet since siesta so we shared a gelato while sitting in the colourful gardens and take the bus home.  I had bathers with me this morning but the wind is just too chilly for me to take a dip in the Bay of Biscay, as much as I wanted to. The motel has a lovely pool so I’ll swim there but right now I’m caught up in the enthralling match between Djokovic and Tsonga in the SFs of Wimbledon on tv. Tomorrow we begin the last leg.