Monday 18 March 2019

3 Europe Dec 85 - Jan 86: Amsterdam

27th Dec
We caught the early train to Hartwich and our excitement rose as we saw the 17,000 ton bulk of the St Nicholas docked beside us. The interior was very plush even in second class with bar, live entertainment, theatre and snack bars. We had a 6.5 hr journey on board  but despite the onboard comforts I was seasick just one hour out. We watched Mad Max 3 (which was terrible) and then I crashed on travel pills until we docked. We followed that up with a train trip from Rotterdam to Amsterdam. Exchange rate - AUD$10 = 18 Guilders 

Arrived Central Station, Amsterdam and got cornered on the platform by a tout to see a room on a 'botel'. It turned out to be fine, moored in the Ruyterkade, just behind the station and only 30G ea per night with our own shower/toilet. Was quite a unique experience and a great location to explore the city.  We had a few beers in the bar of the Amstel Botel served by the entertaining barman. Stan astounded us with his range of languages though he admitted he was a master only of Dutch.  Could have fooled us.




28th Dec
After an enormous breakfast in the galley we began our tour of the city by visiting the Arts and Crafts Centre. We were treated to displays of Delft Blue earthenware, custom made wooden clogs, Dutch licorice and cheese of course.








Then took a canal tour with Holland International Rondvaart. The skies were clear and it was beautiful. On the canals we completed a circuit of the main town and then entered the docks.  


Next we went to Anne Frank's House. As well as her parents and sister there were 4 others living in the hidden annex. It must have been very cramped at the best of times, and there weren't many of them in those days.   








Then we visited the National Museum followed by the Vincent Van Gogh Museum. It houses the largest collection of his works including more than 200 paintings, 500 drawings and letters. There are also also works by his contemporaries – Impressionists and Post-impressionists. These are reprint postcards of his paintings; View of Paris 1886 on top and Kitchen gardens in Montmartre, Paris 1997 below.  

A very cultural day. Took a long walk home through the city and booked a bus tour out to Marken for tomorrow morning. As the shadows grew longer, the chill in the air deepened so we warmed up in the bar of the Amstel Botel and in the evening headed out to visit the Zeedijk (red light) district. The word actually means sea dike but is a street in the old centre. The Zeedijk neighbourhood is also known as the Nautical Quarter because of its past as a sailor's neighbourhood. A very busy place! Had a quick dinner and headed back to the warmth.  

29th Dec
Arose to another enormous breakfast then joined the tour at 10am to see some countryside just north of Amsterdam. We saw Zaanse Schans, the picturesque windmill village, a cheese maker, clog maker and mustard windmill.  Managed to resist the urge to buy clogs, not really that comfortable believe me. 


Our tour took us on to a traditional fish restaurant for lunch in colourful (even at this time of the year) Volendam, a little fishing village on the coast near Edam. Sometimes called "The pearl of the Zuiderzee", Volendam is a popular tourist destination where you find the locals still wearing traditional costumes and clogs. No doubt some just for the tourist interest as that footwear can't be good long term. 

Then we went on to Marken, known for its characteristic wooden houses and traditional costumes again.  Much of the driving has been done crossing reclaimed land, it was an interesting experience not seeing one hill all day. Marken used to be an island in the former Zuiderzee, where the locals relied heavily on fishing, but is now connected to the mainland by a causeway and locals have had to seek other employment.  


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