18th May (Maggio)
Rome
Ahh Roma. After all those hrs of flying (24+) it's good to be here at Hotel Maikol, a family owned B&B, that is 2 blocks from Termina Station, but it took us about 6 blocks to find it. If we hadn't been so tired, the walk around Piazza del Vittorio Imanuelle would have revealed a peaceful, green interlude in a hustling, bustling city but from where we were looking it just seemed to be another piece in the mystery jigsaw that is supposed to match the map. Not! We walked past the door twice before we eventually found the name plate. And then the lift wasn't working so we had to haul the suitcases up 2 flights (81 steps). When the girl at reception said it had broken down that morning I didn't believe her. A short rest and then dinner at a recommended local restaurant.
21st May
Had a lovely lay-in this morning and then caught the bus to Siena, about 20 mins. Noted that for the whole journey there was not one pedestrian mad enough to walk on the road. What an amazing place this is. Listed by UNESCO for its cultural and architectural significance every corner you turn is another photo opportunity. It has always been in a battle with Florence for supremacy and in the 13th century when the aggressors couldn’t penetrate the walls of this city they used the unusual tactic of catapulting dung and dead goat flesh over the walls in the hope that the plague would wipe out the population. Wandered the streets and had pizza and chianti/beer for lunch followed by gelati in the afternoon. You can just sit here and watch the people walk by marvelling at the ancient structures that surround you. The weather has been just beautiful all day and we spent the late afternoon in the courtyard back home before dinner at our restaurant. The dining room seats 10 comfortably and all tables were full with guests. A carafe of vino rossi was set on each of the tables. Antipasto including bruschetta was followed by spinach and ricotta ravioli, then roast potato and beef followed by apple sponge dusted with chocolate. Euro20 ea. The entertainment was provided for free when 2 more large groups of guests arrived (at least 20) and they rearranged seating in a second dining room and also outside on the lawns. We strolled home along the driveway lit only by the stars and masses of fireflies in the gully.
Rome
Ahh Roma. After all those hrs of flying (24+) it's good to be here at Hotel Maikol, a family owned B&B, that is 2 blocks from Termina Station, but it took us about 6 blocks to find it. If we hadn't been so tired, the walk around Piazza del Vittorio Imanuelle would have revealed a peaceful, green interlude in a hustling, bustling city but from where we were looking it just seemed to be another piece in the mystery jigsaw that is supposed to match the map. Not! We walked past the door twice before we eventually found the name plate. And then the lift wasn't working so we had to haul the suitcases up 2 flights (81 steps). When the girl at reception said it had broken down that morning I didn't believe her. A short rest and then dinner at a recommended local restaurant.
19th May
After may hrs of sleep we were woken by the delivery of continental breakfast to our room at 8am. 'Rome in a Day', what to do first? Since we are so close to the Central train station we head there to book tickets to Sienna tomorrow. We emerged 2 hrs later with train rather than bus tickets to Florence, as planned, but that's all good. The final leg to Sienna is by bus. Had used the self serve and found it pretty easy to follow in Italian but the final message was something like "there was a payment error, you have not been charged" so Eric then stood very patiently in a huge queue of foreigners at the Information Counter. Per Favor!
It's now 11 am so our 'Rome in a Day' has been cut to just over half. I'm prepared to cut half the ruins out but Eric insists he sees them all and I should too. My knee is complaining after the Colosseum, Roman Forum and Palatine Hill so we stop for lunch and bierre by Vittorio Emanuelle monument. Shortcuts are out of the question so on to the Pantheon, Piazza Navona, Trevi Fountain (where the crowds are 10 deep) and finally the Spanish Steps.
Caught the Metro home with just a short detour to a sidewalk cafe for refreshing bierre and then strolled through the park to our hotel. Problem is we can't find a public toilet anywhere, so have to keep going into bars for a bierre and using theirs!
Went around the corner to a restaurant for dinner, chose not to have pasta this time. Specialty of the house was veal and mushroom which was lovely served on the sidewalk as we watched the sun set on Santa Maria Magglore.
20th May
After breakfast walked the couple of blocks to Rome Termini for our train to Sienna. Why is it that the only train on the information board without a platform listed is ours? Never mind, we’ve got plenty of time and we aren’t the only ones bemused. When it eventually makes it to the top of the list for departures and with only 5 mins to go, it at last gets allocated. Obviously looking stricken with doubt about where to stand on the platform for our allocated seats, I am approached by a helpful chap who indicates he will show me - and then promptly takes off with my suitcase into the throng of travellers. If I was looking worried a minute ago I am now in a panic and take off after him hoping Eric will find me eventually. To my great relief we are all reunited in the correct carriage for the journey as the train pulls out. Only Euro 5 lighter! My nerves are quickly relaxed by the rhythmic motion of the train, living in the NT I’d forgotten how much I enjoy this mode of travel. Typical of any city I’ve moved through on a train, Rome looks pretty dilapidated along the tracks. The only bit of cheer is all the wild poppies that seem to sprout and bloom in every crack and fissure. It’s a fast train and once we leave Rome behind the view out the window alternates between rolling green hillsides dotted with villas, small villages or we are plunged into tunnels of darkness where the pressure in our sinuses is a little uncomfortable.
At Chuisi-Chiancano we changed from the train to a bus and arrived at the terminal on the outskirts of Siena at lunchtime. After a quick bite to eat and a few essential groceries we caught a taxi to La Grotta di Montecchino, our home for the next few days. The owner was a bit bemused that we didn’t have our own car and changed our room to one at the homestead near the road and bus stop rather than in the quarters about 600m down the track where the shared dining room and swimming pool are located. He let Mama show us to our room, and with no English she managed to explain how not to lock ourselves out of the room when we are enjoying the sunny courtyard, at least I think that’s what she said. We settled in to our quaint apartment and then decided to take the bus to the local village.
Since the timetable told us the next bus wasn’t due for another 20 mins, and the trip is only 2 kms, we made the decision to walk, having sat so much already today. This turned out to be a bit rash as the roads in Italy have no shoulders, there are no footpaths even in the villages, and the traffic moves at alarming speed when you are sharing the same space. We hadn’t gone far at all before realizing how perilous the decision was. But we got there safely and found the supermarket for supplies for dinner and evening drinks. We had to wait out a thunder storm under the awning of the local bar before making our way back to the bus stop. In the meantime we’d missed the bus. If we waited for the next one it would be getting dark and, not sure we’ll find our stop, we made the treacherous walk back lugging all the groceries! We shared a pre-dinner drink in the now not so sunny courtyard and then Eric made a wonderful dinner inspired by the locality – pasta!
Had a lovely lay-in this morning and then caught the bus to Siena, about 20 mins. Noted that for the whole journey there was not one pedestrian mad enough to walk on the road. What an amazing place this is. Listed by UNESCO for its cultural and architectural significance every corner you turn is another photo opportunity. It has always been in a battle with Florence for supremacy and in the 13th century when the aggressors couldn’t penetrate the walls of this city they used the unusual tactic of catapulting dung and dead goat flesh over the walls in the hope that the plague would wipe out the population. Wandered the streets and had pizza and chianti/beer for lunch followed by gelati in the afternoon. You can just sit here and watch the people walk by marvelling at the ancient structures that surround you. The weather has been just beautiful all day and we spent the late afternoon in the courtyard back home before dinner at our restaurant. The dining room seats 10 comfortably and all tables were full with guests. A carafe of vino rossi was set on each of the tables. Antipasto including bruschetta was followed by spinach and ricotta ravioli, then roast potato and beef followed by apple sponge dusted with chocolate. Euro20 ea. The entertainment was provided for free when 2 more large groups of guests arrived (at least 20) and they rearranged seating in a second dining room and also outside on the lawns. We strolled home along the driveway lit only by the stars and masses of fireflies in the gully.
22nd May
Sunday morning, church bells are chiming in the morning sunshine and we have to wait until 10:50 to get a bus to Siena. Sat in the sunshine and chatted with other guests; one from Mt Tambourine Qld, another from Chartres, France. In Siena we started with lunch then made our way to the cathedral, an amazing gothic structure of muti-coloured marble; white red and green at the entrance and gables, black and white stripes for the walls and pillars. The floor is covered with marble mosaics and panels that depict the stories of the day. This cathedral took about 200 yrs to complete after starting in 1196.
Time to climb the imposing bell tower in Il Campo, Torre del Mangia, all 400 steps to view the city and countryside from this vantage point. Met a couple from the Cayman Islands at one point and shared travel stories. Knee held up well so sent a text to my orthopaedic surgeon so he too could share the joy.
Celebrated with more gelato! Collected some groceries on the way home, sent a few postcards and enjoyed the last of the day’s sunshine in the courtyard while the minestrone cooked.
23rd May
Took the bus to San Gimignano today, via Pogginbossi (love that name), about an hr from Siena. This hilltop town also once rivalled Florence for nobility and power and had 72 towers to show it. Only 14 of those remain intact today. This is really hilly, how the tiny little 3 wheeler vans make it around town amazes me. They sound like lawn mowers! From the Piazza della Cisterna in the centre of town we wandered all over and browsed the shops. Bought a set of condiment bottles typical of Tuscan design as a momento of the region. Lots of cyclists in town, they must be keen because I'm not kidding about the hills around here. We found a shady garden at one stage and to our delight a cellist was just setting up and she entertained us with chamber music before we moved on. Visited an amazing archaeological museum with a display of bottles and ceramics from as long ago as 16th century. Some still have remains of herbs and minerals in them from an original pharmacy. The combined knowledge in huge manuscripts was amazing. Back at La Grotta I managed to put a load of washing on with Nona’s help and lots of charades. Whatever she put in the soap dispenser must have been strong because as I hung it out later I found that all our whites are now a nice shade of blue! Eric cooked up another pasta and pancetta dish to follow the soup.
24th May
Got up early and took the Bus Rapide to Firenze. Love the fact that the bus stops just at our doorstep. The traffic in Florence was appalling and we even managed to collect one car on the front of our vehicle at a roundabout! Just a little ding. From the bus terminal it’s just a short walk to the Duomo but the crowds there were massive and we didn’t stay long or consider going inside this time.
A short diversion into the leather market meant we carried home a new belt, bag and wallet. Moved on to the Ponte Vecchio but once again the crowds were too much for us so we found a quite Trattoria for a late lunch.
Then we left David to his masses and made our way home to La Grotta for lamb and potato baked with rosemary from the garden. Nona only too happy to share the garden produce including about a kg of fresh cherries.
One thing intrigues me about Tuscany – where are all the cows and sheep and horses? We’ve seen heaps of productive fields but no animals. They can’t all be in barns, or are they? We’ve decided we would like to spend some time in Lucca and since it is on the way to Cinque Terra we might cut this stay a few days short and head there on Friday. But Antonio and his girlfriend left in the red Alpha Romeo convertible and have been gone for 3 days now. We don’t know when they’ll be back and how to change our booking if we want to do this? Did I mention we were fined Euro 5 today for travelling on the train with an un-validated ticket? Oops!
25th May
Today we had a very slow start to the day, a late breakfast and then caught the bus to Siena for the local produce market. Saw some amazing offerings of spit roasted pig and fresh fish along with fresh vegies and bread in every shape imaginable. The tomatoes here have amazing flavour. Also all the usual clothes, shoes and kitchenware. The new season's colour is green, not quite bottle green but close, more window-shutter green. Managed to resist all but one blouse and then had to buy matching glass jewellery and handbag in the shopping centre! Not such a bargain after all.
We found just the bird book we have been looking for today so now we can start identifying all the ones we’ve been seeing around La Grotta. At last I have configured my phone for internet and MMS and Eric has found the mix he needs for Porccini risotto so a good day. The kitchen smells divinely of rosemary on our return. We take a walk across the farm identifying birds.
26th May
Went straight to Siena and the Museo Civico in Il Campo and browsed the frescoes and memorabilia from 1600’s on. We were amazed, particularly by the paintings of liberation by Emmanuel Vittorio on the ceilings in the more modern section. Very apparent how much influence the church had on all things that these days would be decided by the local council.
Explored the streets we hadn’t yet ventured down. You could walk any street and be intrigued by the architecture. Managed to get a wi-fi connection for a short time in the Irish Pub but then my phone started playing up. On Eric’s connection we booked a hotel for 2 nights in Lucca. Now we have to explain to La Grotta that we are leaving 2 days early, with Tony still not back that may take some charades! Ah, not so bad, we learnt that Tony returns tomorrow!
27th May
On our way to the bus this morning we noted the return of the little Alpha. Eric can have that discussion this afternoon.
What’s the worst thing that can happen to your pedometer when you lower your pants to go to the toilet? Yep, mine ended up underwater and its finito! Have to trust Eric to tell me when we’ve reached 10,000 steps a day, that’s the goal you see. Most days getting pretty close or well over. Decided to post home our Tuscan shopping so visited the post office and managed with some difficulty (actually lots) to get the box sent. Only 3 kg, but pretty bulky with 2 handbags inside. Instead of going directly into the old town today we headed to an outlook near the old fort and then went into the Basilica Santa Caterina. In contrast to the ornate cathedral, this place of worship is quite Spartan but it did have a lovely welcoming feel with the flags of all the different councils on display. Had a lovely lunch on a cafe balcony overlooking the old city.
Walked to Il Campo for a last visit and wrote a final postcard from here. When we first aligned ourselves with one of the 17 contrade, or districts, which competes in the Il Palio we were inclined towards the Dragons but since learning that both my knee specialist and Tony of La Grotta support the Snails we now follow them. Besides, it probably better matches the pace we are settling into. This place must look amazing when all the supporters and their flags flock here.
Eric is now definitely ahead of me in the shopping with a second pair of shoes to his credit. No Antonio when we get home but we are assured he will be there in the morning.
We spent the afternoon browsing and then shared a drink in the piazza before heading back for dinner, the crowds in town were growing rather than thinning.
Have I mentioned how suitable a bidet is for hand washing clothes on the go? Fabulous design.
3rd June
It looks like it’s just going to be one of those days! We headed out with just 3 things to achieve: post the mail, get cash for the apartment and book the train tickets for tomorrow. The Post Office is closed due to ‘problem technica’, the ATM is not dispensing money due to ‘problem technica’ and there is a train strike until 5pm. We head back to the apartment to make a new plan. After a lunch where we cleaned out as much food as we could from the fridge we tried again. Some trains are running so we made it to Monterosso, managed to book seats successfully for tomorrow and get money. Things are looking up. While we are there the sun is shining so Libby had that swim she’s been talking about for the last 2 days. She is almost the only one actually swimming, everyone else just stands knee deep in water and sunbakes vertically instead of the more normal horizontal position. Perhaps that’s because the pebbly beaches get a bit too uncomfortable after awhile. Managed to just miss 2 very quick downpours while either on the train home or in the subway.
On settling the bill for our stay I was able to get some answers. There was no festiva yesterday, I think we were just ripped-off, perhaps I shouldn’t have asked. There is a cemetery on the outskirts of town where locals are buried so that's where they went the other day. For many years the boats did have to be man-handled in and out of the water but for the last 20 yrs they have been able to use a pulley system. There is no commercial fishing here though, just a hobby for locals when it is quiet here - in the winter mostly. They also like to go hunting which is good as feral pigs are a problem in the area. He showed me some photos of the area under a blanket of snow both in 1985 and also 2002. Also of wild storms where the ocean breakers have washed over the trail to Corniglia. Apparently, on average, every year a couple of people are swept off and killed. We’ve loved it here in Cinque Terra, so glad it has been preserved by the National Park structure, but we are ready to move on tomorrow.
What’s the worst thing that can happen to your pedometer when you lower your pants to go to the toilet? Yep, mine ended up underwater and its finito! Have to trust Eric to tell me when we’ve reached 10,000 steps a day, that’s the goal you see. Most days getting pretty close or well over. Decided to post home our Tuscan shopping so visited the post office and managed with some difficulty (actually lots) to get the box sent. Only 3 kg, but pretty bulky with 2 handbags inside. Instead of going directly into the old town today we headed to an outlook near the old fort and then went into the Basilica Santa Caterina. In contrast to the ornate cathedral, this place of worship is quite Spartan but it did have a lovely welcoming feel with the flags of all the different councils on display. Had a lovely lunch on a cafe balcony overlooking the old city.
Walked to Il Campo for a last visit and wrote a final postcard from here. When we first aligned ourselves with one of the 17 contrade, or districts, which competes in the Il Palio we were inclined towards the Dragons but since learning that both my knee specialist and Tony of La Grotta support the Snails we now follow them. Besides, it probably better matches the pace we are settling into. This place must look amazing when all the supporters and their flags flock here.
Eric is now definitely ahead of me in the shopping with a second pair of shoes to his credit. No Antonio when we get home but we are assured he will be there in the morning.
28th May
Here we are in Lucca. We think this was a good change of plans as the place looks interesting and we were ready to move on. I’m online at last and Eric is watching 'Italy’s Got Talent’ on the tv. First time we’ve turned the tv on since we left Darwin. This morning Nonna rang Tony and he returned to La Grotta to sort out our account. No trouble there, just the maths a bit difficult for him at first but we got there in the end with Eric being very patient, meanwhile our bus went past and we had to settle for one an hour later but hey, we’re on Italian time and this is our last hour in La Grotta’s courtyard. I did ask Tony about the farm animals and I think he told me that it is all too inconvenient these days for the small landowners and so all the milk and meat production is taken care of by big companies and they are not in this area. Caught the train to Florence and the connection to Lucca. Chatted with a couple of women from NZ and then students; one from Kuching via Melbourne, Texas and Brussels, another from Bologna who is soon to continue his studies in Finland. What a life these guys have in front of them. Mind you we are feeling pretty content with ours. In Lucca we found our hotel and then made our way out onto the street to investigate the old town.
We spent the afternoon browsing and then shared a drink in the piazza before heading back for dinner, the crowds in town were growing rather than thinning.
Have I mentioned how suitable a bidet is for hand washing clothes on the go? Fabulous design.
29th May
Enjoyed the all inclusive breakfast at the hotel and then arranged to hire bikes for the day. Very European in style, not quite what we are used to but we managed them and generally stayed on the right (not left) side of the road. Actually the town is really well set up for bikes with trails all over both the old and new sections. We thoroughly enjoyed touring along the entire wall with shady trees and stops to visit places of interest.
The Palazzo Pfanner was once the family home of a well respected doctor; there are displays of his instruments which make you very glad not to have been a patient in the 18th century. Strolled through the lovely gardens both here and later at the shady Botanic Gardens where there are over 700 plants of medicinal value on display. Found another little sidewalk trattoria for lunch then rode the city walls in the opposite direction just because we enjoyed it so much. Spent the afternoon updating the blog because at last we had internet connection and then had dinner where all the locals were dining just around the corner. Enjoyed pasta with mushroom and veal. Molto bene. Our last night in Tuscany.
30th May
After breakfast took a taxi to the station and train to Pisa. Deposited our bags at the station and walked to the Piazza del Miracoli to once again marvel at the Leaning Tower, an archaeological project gone wrong, but making a name (and dollar) for itself. Wandered around this, the Cathedral and Baptistry but decided not to wait the extra hr to climb it once more. No doubt the views will be much the same. It is nice to see it all without the scaffolding that was present in 1986. After lunch caught the train on to La Spezia which passes through Carrara, famous for its white marble, favoured by Michelangelo and other sculptors. At first you think you are passing snowfields but as you draw closer you realise you are seeing fields of marble in vast quarries.
Finally we get the connection to Manarola, one of the 5 villages that make up Cinque Terra. That last leg is only 12 minutes long and you do about 10 of it in one long tunnel and then emerge with sheer rock cliffs on the right and the aquamarine Ligurian Sea to the left. A collective audible sigh is heard as everyone in the carriage is awestruck.
My god the paths here are steep, the mountains just fall into the sea and the houses in the village are all built as if leaning into the cliffs and holding each other up. They are connected by little pathways. After all the stairs up and down train platforms today I have now had enough. Found Da Paulin apartment, absolutely gorgeous with balcony just perfect for sunset overlooking the sea. After a short rest we walked out to the point then got a few supplies for dinner and breakfast. Max-ed out the pedometer at just under 18,000 steps today, most of them up or down what’s more, but it is going to be more of the same for the next 4 days I can see. Enjoyed a beer at the bar closest to the waterfront just before sunset and then went home to share olives and cheese on our balcony. Eric cooked chicken with fennel and rice tonight, already we have decided on fresh seafood at the local tomorrow night. We note that corks are still the norm for wine bottles in Italy. The local drop here is made by a collective of all the grapes grown on vines along the terraces, another of the ways UNESCO and the National Park are maintaining the culture and lifestyle of the area.
31st May
Apparently in the earliest days this remote area was inhabited by a few hilltop villages connected only by paths. The people were ruled by Genoa rather than Italy and hung on despite wars, plagues and the harshest of nature’s ways including wild seas that they were afraid of. Over the years they have increased the arable land by creating close drystone terraces, almost 7000kms of them, down the hillsides. You have to be impressed by how these people collaboratively worked to create a system that everyone could take advantage of rather than being selfish and just looking after their own plots. It was a hard life though with landslides quite common and wild seas with poor harbours, not to mention raids by pirates. Back in the 90s, through lack of population, and lack of interest in hard work, the terraces began to fail under pressure from the environment and the native scrub moving back in. The National Park was established in 1999 with the goals to stop degradation, provide protection for villagers against danger of landslides and re-establish the region as a wine growing one. A careful balance between the natural environment and the archaeological value of the built terracing has been achieved.
This morning we headed out to walk the Manarola-Corniglia trail that follows the coast, short but quite difficult, but we discovered the track has been closed due to landslides so we took on the more adventurous trekking trail across the hills. About 2 hrs later we arrived in Corniglia and took a rest and had lunch. It was a pretty tough hike and not one to move like a mountain gazelle, but more like a heffalump with a limp, very pleased with myself for getting to the end in good shape. So good in fact that we then took the train to Riomaggiore and walked the easy coast trail home. One very notable good decision we have made is to not stay in Corniglia where the track from the station to the village climbs steeply over steps that switchback up the side of the cliff. We can’t imagine how people manage to haul luggage up there.
1st June (Guigno)
Awoke to cloudy skies and impending rain so stayed in bed and made the most of it. Eventually decided that it was worth trying to walk at least one leg for the day so took the train to Monterosso al Mare. This is the resort end of the area with bathing boxes, beach umbrellas and paddle boats for hire along the beach of pebbles, but all vacant today with such cloudy skies. Its the largest of the villages because unlike the others it can be reached by car as well as train and ferry. We walked to the old end of town with its gigantic 14 metre sculpture of Neptune, God of the Sea. He’s holding up a terrace that in the 20’s was a shell-shaped dance floor!
Took the walking trail from here along the coast to Vernassa, extremely tough uphill start but then very pleasant walk into this next village. You can tell these are challenging trails when the guidebook tells you to that it will take 2 hrs to walk the 3 kms! We were delighted with this village and had a fresh seafood lunch in the main thoroughfare.
Refreshed we took on the next leg as well, Vernassa to Corniglia. Perhaps this was a bit ambitious; it was harder than expected after the morning and on top of yesterday but feels good to have it done. Celebrated with a gelato on the station platform while waiting for the train home to Manorola. My knee is swollen tonight but I’m confident it will recover, I bet our calves will be tight tomorrow though. A bath would have been good tonight but lacking one of those, had to settle for a hot shower and hoping for a swim in the ocean tomorrow if the weather improves. The rain held off today and it turned out to be very suitable for trekking.
2nd June
Well today turned into one of those catch-up days where you spend a leisurely morning reading and relaxing and then take a stroll to the next village for a bite to eat. Thankfully from Manarolla you can walk to Riomaggiore without any hills, the only path that isn’t at more than 45 degrees, but even getting down to the start and back up to our apartment is a killer on the calves today. We found some great fresh ingredients for dinner and a bottle of the local vino on special so it was well worth the effort. We actually ended up back at Manarola for lunch as it’s very crowded everywhere today, a festiva day but we haven’t been able to establish which festiva. Eric had squid ink pasta with seafood but I elected for the less adventurous clams and mussels with pasta. Two other questions I’m yet to get answers to. We saw a funeral procession yesterday but I don’t know where they ended up. Without being a sticky beak I want to know if bodies are put to sea or buried somewhere beyond the village, haven’t seen any cemeteries and can’t imagine land being available here. Also, all the fishing boats are on land, when and how are they put to sea? We’ve seen a pulley system not in use; is this what it is used for? I had planned to take an ocean swim after lunch but the clouds rolled in so I opted for the couch and a good book instead. The woman who lives in the house just below us seems to have a sewing circle most afternoons where her friends come and join her on the roof for sewing, knitting or crotchet. Today as I lay on the couch their voices entertained me just as well as any cd could as they moved from chatter, to heated argument and even song. All of which, of course, I couldn’t understand a word of.
It looks like it’s just going to be one of those days! We headed out with just 3 things to achieve: post the mail, get cash for the apartment and book the train tickets for tomorrow. The Post Office is closed due to ‘problem technica’, the ATM is not dispensing money due to ‘problem technica’ and there is a train strike until 5pm. We head back to the apartment to make a new plan. After a lunch where we cleaned out as much food as we could from the fridge we tried again. Some trains are running so we made it to Monterosso, managed to book seats successfully for tomorrow and get money. Things are looking up. While we are there the sun is shining so Libby had that swim she’s been talking about for the last 2 days. She is almost the only one actually swimming, everyone else just stands knee deep in water and sunbakes vertically instead of the more normal horizontal position. Perhaps that’s because the pebbly beaches get a bit too uncomfortable after awhile. Managed to just miss 2 very quick downpours while either on the train home or in the subway.
On settling the bill for our stay I was able to get some answers. There was no festiva yesterday, I think we were just ripped-off, perhaps I shouldn’t have asked. There is a cemetery on the outskirts of town where locals are buried so that's where they went the other day. For many years the boats did have to be man-handled in and out of the water but for the last 20 yrs they have been able to use a pulley system. There is no commercial fishing here though, just a hobby for locals when it is quiet here - in the winter mostly. They also like to go hunting which is good as feral pigs are a problem in the area. He showed me some photos of the area under a blanket of snow both in 1985 and also 2002. Also of wild storms where the ocean breakers have washed over the trail to Corniglia. Apparently, on average, every year a couple of people are swept off and killed. We’ve loved it here in Cinque Terra, so glad it has been preserved by the National Park structure, but we are ready to move on tomorrow.
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