Long Service Leave 2011 Second leg: Provence

4th June (Juin)

Just as well we enjoy train travel.  We caught the first connection at 10:26am to Monterosso, and eventually arrived in Nice at 4:30pm after 2 other changes. On the way to the station at Manarola we bought a bottle of lemonchello, after Libby had tasted some last night at our host’s house. The train follows the coast the whole way and it was interesting to observe the Italian and then French Riviera from this relaxed viewing angle. Amazing, the opulence of both houses and craft on the water, the only break you get is when the train plunges back into another tunnel.  It’s been a long day but we’re in France.  Bonjour!  As we are only in Nice for one night we chose a hotel just 3 mins walk from central station.  We dropped off the luggage and went walking to the ‘centre historique’ to see the sights and get a feel for Nice, love the architecture - rooflines and balconies that remind me of Paris in ‘86.  They have managed to preserve a lot of open space in the city and we found the traffic very easy to negotiate.  Walked for about half an hour along the esplanade watching others strutting their stuff along this strip of beach.  Nothing like our beaches and I feel a little sorry for them that they need rigid paths and platforms overlaid on the pebbles to designate who sits where and how much space you can have under your colour-coded umbrella.  But no one else here seems to mind and it is great to see so many people of all ages out enjoying the fresh air and sunshine.  

We ate in the old centre and then made our way home, dodging a downpour by catching a tram. The food was beautiful at the restaurant but here on our first night in France and we’ve ordered Tuscan Lamb with garlic and rosemary. Our maitre de suggested a red wine to go with the lamb and it was perfect. Time to try and sleep in our dank, noisy, stuffy hotel room. Can't really complain as the price is right and location fabulous.

5th June

We slept well but Eric has woken with the grippe (a cold).  We walked back to the old centre as today is flower and fresh produce market day, hoping to find a chemist open along the way.  The stalls at the market were laden with fabulous looking produce and although we are travelling again today we couldn’t resist a bag of both figs and pistachios before wandering back to the hotel to collect our bags and then head to the station in plenty of time for the train to Aix en Provence.   

We left Nice in more heavy rain and enjoyed the beautiful smooth ride on the TGV (very fast train) passing by coast, vineyards and mountains.  Only one small hiccough was when at Cannes we were questioned about the seats we were occupying.  I thought I had been very clever to find the carriage with seats 41 and 42 but it turns out we should have noted that the carriage number was supposed to be 7 not 15 (every carriage has seats 41 and 42).  At the next station we alighted with all our bags and had to run/hobble along the platform to find the correct one before it took off again.  The station at Aix is a 15 min bus trip out of town and then we found a taxi, as it is drizzling,  to take us to our apartment doorstep.  How delightful it is! Our hosts Christina and Edouard met us there and showed us how everything works, explained where to find the baker, butcher and supermarket (all just in our street) and suggested what we should see and do in the next week.  We made a quick visit to the shops before 6pm closing (being Sunday) and then made ourselves at home in our cosy new home.  Eric is so excited to find the kitchen has a vegetable peeler and sharp knives. I'm more excited by the rooftop terrace. Neither of us is too thrilled about the steps up to the mezzanine bed.

6th June

Although rain is predicted until tomorrow we have enjoyed a sunny day.  Made the most of the morning by walking to the fresh produce market and collecting our supplies for the rest of the day.  After returning home to leave them we orientated ourselves around the rest of the old town centre.  Enjoyed walking under the shade of massive plain trees that line all the major thoroughfares, many of the streets are just one way traffic or malls so very easy to navigate on foot.  Our apartment is on a mall with only delivery vehicles allowed. 

The city is graced with a number of fountains that date back to the 17^th century  and many grand buildings.  We’ve investigated bus and train networks and considered hire car options to explore beyond the city in the coming week.  Right next door is a specialty tea shoppe so we ducked in there on the way home for a cuppa and left with some Earl Grey Fleurs Bleu to enjoy in the coming weeks.  We enjoyed the late afternoon sunshine on our rooftop terrace with a few local specialties from this morning’s market including olives, cheese and crusty bread before moving inside for a simple leek soup dinner.  Bon appétit!

7th June

Started the day completing some necessities like banking, travel bookings and I’ve completed a job application!  Everyone keep your fingers crossed that I have a job in 2012.   Ventured out and the first stop was the Musee Granet just around the corner. One of France’s best regional museums, it‘s permanent collection spans 14^th to 20^th century works.  The sculpture hall alone was really interesting and the English interpretation service excellent.  From here we followed the Cezanne Walk to see some of the best examples of architecture in town and then wandered the gardens of the 17^th century Lenfant Pavillion before arriving at the ancient roman baths -  Thermes Sextius .  Since we are now at the far edge of the old town centre, as far away as possible from our apartment, we decided the best thing to do was find a shady corner spot in one of the many squares and enjoy a refreshment.  Turns out the one we chose is one of the oldest with a roman column in its fountain and the old corn exchange building gracing one of its sides. 

We had a great time walking into local shops and using charades and our appalling French to get the produce Eric needed for dinner. There is a cheese shop in our street that only sells cheese, a butcher who sells rabbit, duck, terrines de canard and all sorts of wonderful food, Eric is in heaven. At the Italian shop to got anchovies for the Provencal sauce. Amazing food here! We made our way home moving through shopping areas that moved from quite kitsch to ultra swanky boutique, there’s something for everyone here.  

Once again Eric is cooking dinner; Provencal Chicken with olives, anchovy and tomato accompanied by sautéed mushrooms.  He’s a little frustrated by the induction hotplates but managing to fill the place with delightful fragrances.   Did I mention my excursion to the wine store to get a bottle of white wine for the sauteed mushrooms?  Because it is available just across the street I left without the keys.  Down many flights of stairs, each older than any building in Australia by at least 200 yrs, as soon as I heard the street door click shut behind me I knew I’d made a a mistake.  I bought the wine and then there was nothing for it but to wait patiently outside the lolly shop directly across from our kitchen window and wait until Eric missed me.  It didn’t take too long for the window on the 5^th floor to open and an enquiring face to appear wondering why I was waiting there.  Just as well it was still warm and sunny even after 7pm.  The dinner was well worth the wait and the evening finished off with a delightful lemoncello  from Cinque Terra, you just can’t leave there without a bottle.  The good news is they also sell it in the Italian shop in our street! (Only here it is called lemoncino).

8th June

Took a train to Marseille and connection on to Arles: more Roman ruins Eric is interested in.  But when we arrive there is a bus just about to depart for the Canargue, a wetland in the Rhone Delta of recognised importance and so we jump on.  South of Arles you enter an area that seems heavily influenced by Spain; white stucco and clay tile buildings, black bulls grazing in the fields and small white horses, tended by cowboys in big hats, saddled-up awaiting the next busload of riders to arrive.  They have bull fighting and the running of the bulls in this region.  The land is very flat with an abundance of wetlands interspersed with rice paddies and grain fields, sunflowers, orchards and even a few vineyards.  We were delighted to see our first sighting of flamingos in the wild.  The bus terminated at Les Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer on the coast and we got off trying to establish when the next bus returned to Arles.  No comprende!  I told you there was a Spanish influence.  

To our dismay there is not a return bus for 4 hrs and that gets us back too late for connections home.  Eric seethes with frustration and I look for a place to have lunch and contemplate the next move.  We end up in a cafe that specializes, not surprisingly, in Paella and Sangria and decide there is nothing for it but to take a taxi back to Arles.  My God, what will that cost?  And is there one?  Fortunately yes, there is a taxi service and it turns out not to be as expensive as one might think.  Well anyway, that’s the way you’ve got to look at it from our current position.  

Back in Arles we have time to scoot around the Roman ruins so at last Eric is a little more cheerful. Caesar gave this colony to the veterans of his legions so it had a real Golden Age.  They created amphitheatres, forums and theatres – such high culture so far from home.  We contemplated what Australians would construct if they conquered a foreign land. AFL grounds?  We finish the walk with a stretch of the Rhone River just short of the station, remarkable to think this waterway begins at the base of a glacier in Switzerland.  

The day is not a complete loss.  We make out connections back to Marseille and home to Aix without further drama.  Even found a rosemary plant I could take a few slips from for tonight’s dinner (all be it very slyly outside a florist shop).  

9th June

When we got the message, late last night from Laurie, to call home ASAP we knew the news would not be good.  Early this morning we were told that Eric’s Mum had passed away.  Although this was not really unexpected, and Eric had already considered that it may well happen while we were away, you are never really ready to lose someone who has been there since the day you were born.  We spent the early morning in a reflective mood and then headed to the tourist office to book tickets on a tour bus for the Luberon district tomorrow, so as not to repeat the mistakes of yesterday.  On the way we walked through the market in Cours Mirabeau and what could make the day turn from bad to disastrous?  Eric has just visited the autobank to withdraw cash and now he has had his wallet stolen.  After some panic stricken moments and time spent retracing our steps we got home and began the process of cancelling cards.  As it happens Christine, our host, visited while we were home and had by chance bought a bunch of flowers with her.  That brought me undone and between the both of us we shared more tears as her Mum has died quite recently too.  She explained that normally Aix is quite safe but this weekend there is a Sud Cote (South Coast) Festival and that brings all the gypsies to town – hence the Romanian children who make a pest of themselves at the markets.  They were so good we didn‘t even see them.  Funny, I’d had my pickpocket radar on full alert in Italy but here I had relaxed and Eric is naturally pretty preoccupied today.  We spent a long afternoon at the French Police station making a report.  At one stage there were 7 officers all intrigued with our plight, but not one of them could speak English and our French is not good at the best of times, let alone under this stress. We had to go back home to  retrieve our passports and when we returned to the poste de police there was English-speaking help on hand.  And the day ends on a more positive note; even though my cards are attached to the same accounts they are not cancelled so we can still access money.  That’s better than when it happened in 1985, but that’s another story.  No pics today.

10th June

Today we took a tour into the Luberon which is 3 mountain ranges and the valley that lies between.  It is recognised for its cultural heritage as well as the fabulous primary produce and since 1977 the whole 600sq kms has been declared a National Park.  Once St Tropez was the place to have your European Getaway but these days the Luberon is attracting movie stars, artists, designers etc, who are buying up chateaux for weekenders.  We drove through wheat fields, vineyards, olive groves and almond trees before the first stop at Louramin where a very popular market was being held.   Like many of the villages, the township is dominated by a castle and has characteristic narrow winding streets, today filled with colourful street stalls of every kind. 

On the next leg we passed the first lavender fields I’ve seen in the region, I’ve been expecting them ever since we arrived.  And once we saw one, we saw hundreds. Here also are the 3 kinds of oak trees that have the fungus locally called ‘black diamonds’.  Last season truffles sold for 1000 Euro for just 1 kg.    The next stop was Roussillon, once famous for its ochre mines this industry is now topped but the cliffs and pits remain a remarkable reminder.  Every building in the village is painted in the range of ochre options, and why wouldn’t you?  Not only are they warm and rich but everything would end up stained this colour palette anyway.  

Our tour then took us to the Romanesque style Cistercian Abbey of Silvacane founded in the 12th century.  This valley was a very remote part of the world when the monks first established the abbey and took their vows in solitude, poverty, chastity, manual labour etc.  These days tourists troop through 7 days a week, much to the Abbott’s chagrin apparently, but the money comes in handy for restorations. 

Our final stop was at the village of Gordes.  This has been declared the most beautiful village in France and is famous for its drystone wall construction.  We had the chance to walk into an original one-room, one door building that is completely constructed by the drystone method, even the roof.  No supporting structures at all, just stones placed much like an igloo made of iceblocks.  Its amazing that it has stood here all that time.  Even the modern homes being constructed on the outskirts of this village are finishing their exterior walls with a drystone veneer to keep with the theme. 

We finally returned to Aix for our last night in our very comfy apartment before leaving for Montpellier.

11th June

We started the day packing and getting ready to leave our compact but cosy apartment in Aix.  While we have loved it, we will not miss the climb up and down to the bed.  Our hosts arrived with croissants (chocolate if you don’t mind) for morning tea and home-made olive tapenade for us to take with us.  We managed an interesting discussion about French cuisine.  So much of their diet is rich in carbohydrates, sugars and fats; bread, chocolate, olive oil, cheese, processed meats, desserts heavy on cream and butter, yet the population are not overweight.  It seems the secret is to only eat a little. But how to do that with all the specialty chocolate shops, cookie shops, lolly shops, icecream shops, bakers..........?  One interesting titbit we learnt was that when you serve garlic, the French always offer a roasted coffee bean to chew on to remove bad breath.  Christine and Edouard are a lovely couple and it was good to catch up again. I’d like to think we will keep in touch as they would love to bring their three children out to Australia for a year, sometime.  We would like to help make that possible.  All too soon we had to leave for the station on foot, dragging our ever increasingly heavy luggage (burnt off a few of those croissant kgs).  

We caught the train back to Marseille, this is our third time here and we know where everything is now.  We had time for a coffee before the connection to Montpellier, just a 2 hr journey.  Wow!  We are delighted with this choice.  The city centre has no cars so just trams and buses and lots of people out on the streets as we walk for five minutes to the New Hotel du Midi located in a more than one hundred-year old Haussmann-style building. After checking in to this recently refurbished old hotel with sweeping marble staircases, gorgeous original leadlight, mosaic tile floors and intricate ironwork we head out for a late lunch.  Plenty of choice in the adjoining Place de la Comedie which features the beautiful Fontaine des Trois Grâces.  

From there we took the 2 hr walk around the historic centre of town.  I thought it was going to take much longer as it was hard to drag Eric away from the Women’s Beach Volleyball competition taking place in the city square. I had to entice him with the possibility of seeing more Roman Ruins!  By contrast he didn’t take much convincing to proceed past the cultural display from Portugal.  So much going on, wedding parties walking through town, Kurdish protesters, another rally we couldn’t make out the purpose of...... But once I got him past the volleyball, and I bought one more pair of shoes at the market, we made pretty good time. 

We are delighted to have spent the afternoon here; Montpellier is gorgeous with lots of green spaces with big plain trees and gardens, fountains and monuments, pedestrian malls and action in the streets.  After dinner we were entertained by some fabulous acrobatic/wrap dancing buskers and  we made another detour to the beach volleyball – just to see if the men were playing but again it was the women in skimpy outfits!

Long Service leave 2011 First Leg: Tuscany and Cinque Terra

18th May (Maggio)
Rome
Ahh Roma. After all those hrs of flying (24+) it's good to be here at Hotel Maikol, a family owned B&B, that is 2 blocks from Termina Station, but it took us about 6 blocks to find it.  If we hadn't been so tired, the walk around Piazza del Vittorio Imanuelle would have revealed a peaceful, green interlude in a hustling, bustling city but from where we were looking it just seemed to be another piece in the mystery jigsaw that is supposed to match the map. Not!  We walked past the door twice before we eventually found the name plate.  And then the lift wasn't working so we had to haul the suitcases up 2 flights (81 steps).  When the girl at reception said it had broken down that morning I didn't believe her.  A short rest and then dinner at a recommended local restaurant.

19th May

After may hrs of sleep we were woken by the delivery of continental breakfast to our room at 8am.  'Rome in a Day', what to do first?  Since we are so close to the Central train station we head there to book tickets to Sienna tomorrow.  We emerged 2 hrs later with train rather than bus tickets to Florence, as planned, but that's all good. The final leg to Sienna is by bus.  Had used the self serve and found it pretty easy to follow in Italian but the final message was something like "there was a payment error, you have not been charged" so Eric then stood very patiently in a huge queue of foreigners at the Information Counter.  Per Favor!

It's now 11 am so our 'Rome in a Day' has been cut to just over half.  I'm prepared to cut half the ruins out but Eric insists he sees them all and I should too.  My knee is complaining after the Colosseum, Roman Forum and Palatine Hill so we stop for lunch and bierre by Vittorio Emanuelle monument.  Shortcuts are out of the question so on to the Pantheon, Piazza Navona, Trevi Fountain (where the crowds are 10 deep) and finally the Spanish Steps.  

Caught the Metro home with just a short detour to a sidewalk cafe for refreshing bierre and then strolled through the park to our hotel.  Problem is we can't find a public toilet anywhere, so have to keep going into bars for a bierre and using theirs!

Went around the corner to a restaurant for dinner, chose not to have pasta this time.  Specialty of the house was veal and mushroom which was lovely served on the sidewalk as we watched the sun set on Santa Maria Magglore.

20th May

After breakfast walked the couple of blocks to Rome Termini for our train to Sienna. Why is it that the only train on the information board without a platform listed is ours? Never mind, we’ve got plenty of time and we aren’t the only ones bemused.  When it eventually makes it to the top of the list for departures and with only 5 mins to go, it at last gets allocated.  Obviously looking stricken with doubt about where to stand on the platform for our allocated seats, I am approached by a helpful chap who indicates he will show me - and then promptly takes off with my suitcase into the throng of travellers.  If I was looking worried a minute ago I am now in a panic and take off after him hoping Eric will find me eventually.  To my great relief we are all reunited in the correct carriage for the journey as the train pulls out.  Only Euro 5 lighter!  My nerves are quickly relaxed by the rhythmic motion of the train, living in the NT I’d forgotten how much I enjoy this mode of travel.  Typical of any city I’ve moved through on a train, Rome looks pretty dilapidated along the tracks.  The only bit of cheer is all the wild poppies that seem to sprout and bloom in every crack and fissure.  It’s a fast train and once we leave Rome behind the view out the window alternates between rolling green hillsides dotted with villas, small villages or we are plunged into tunnels of darkness where the pressure in our sinuses is a little uncomfortable.

At Chuisi-Chiancano we changed from the train to a bus and arrived at the terminal on the outskirts of Siena at lunchtime.  After a quick bite to eat and a few essential groceries we caught a taxi to La Grotta di Montecchino, our home for the next few days.  The owner was a bit bemused that we didn’t have our own car and changed our room to one at the homestead near the road and bus stop rather than in the quarters about 600m down the track where the shared dining room and swimming pool are located.  He let Mama show us to our room, and with no English she managed to explain how not to lock ourselves out of the room when we are enjoying the sunny courtyard, at least I think that’s what she said.  We settled in to our quaint apartment and then decided to take the bus to the local village.

Since the timetable told us the next bus wasn’t due for another 20 mins, and the trip is only 2 kms, we made the decision to walk, having sat so much already today.  This turned out to be a bit rash as the roads in Italy have no shoulders, there are no footpaths even in the villages, and the traffic moves at alarming speed when you are sharing the same space.  We hadn’t gone far at all before realizing how perilous the decision was.  But we got there safely and found the supermarket for supplies for dinner and evening drinks. We had to wait out a thunder storm under the awning of the local bar before making our way back to the bus stop.  In the meantime we’d missed the bus. If we waited for the next one it would be getting dark and, not sure we’ll find our stop, we made the treacherous walk back lugging all the groceries!  We shared a pre-dinner drink in the now not so sunny courtyard and then Eric made a wonderful dinner inspired by the locality – pasta!

21st May

Had a lovely lay-in this morning and then caught the bus to Siena, about 20 mins.  Noted that for the whole journey there was not one pedestrian mad enough to walk on the road.  What an amazing place this is. Listed by UNESCO for its cultural and architectural significance every corner you turn is another photo opportunity.  It has always been in a battle with Florence for supremacy and in the 13th century when the aggressors couldn’t penetrate the walls of this city they used the unusual tactic of catapulting dung and dead goat flesh over the walls in the hope that the plague would wipe out the population.  Wandered the streets and had pizza and chianti/beer for lunch followed by gelati in the afternoon.  You can just sit here and watch the people walk by marvelling at the ancient structures that surround you.  The weather has been just beautiful all day and we spent the late afternoon in the courtyard back home before dinner at our restaurant.  The dining room seats 10 comfortably and all tables were full with guests. A carafe of vino rossi was set on each of the tables.  Antipasto including bruschetta was followed by spinach and ricotta ravioli, then roast potato and beef followed by apple sponge dusted with chocolate.  Euro20 ea.  The entertainment was provided for free when 2 more large groups of guests arrived (at least 20) and they rearranged seating in a second dining room and also outside on the lawns.  We strolled home along the driveway lit only by the stars and masses of fireflies in the gully.

22nd May

Sunday morning, church bells are chiming in the morning sunshine and we have to wait until 10:50 to get a bus to Siena.  Sat in the sunshine and chatted with other guests; one from Mt Tambourine Qld, another from Chartres, France.  In Siena we started with lunch then made our way to the cathedral, an amazing gothic structure of muti-coloured marble; white red and green at the entrance and gables, black and white stripes for the walls and pillars.  The floor is covered with marble mosaics and panels that depict the stories of the day. This cathedral took about 200 yrs to complete after starting in 1196.

Time to climb the imposing bell tower in Il Campo, Torre del Mangia, all 400 steps to view the city and countryside from this vantage point.  Met a couple from the Cayman Islands at one point and shared travel stories. Knee held up well so sent a text to my orthopaedic surgeon so he too could share the joy.  

Celebrated with more gelato!  Collected some groceries on the way home, sent a few postcards and enjoyed the last of the day’s sunshine in the courtyard while the minestrone cooked.

23rd May

Took the bus to San Gimignano today, via Pogginbossi (love that name), about an hr from Siena.  This hilltop town also once rivalled Florence for nobility and power and had 72 towers to show it.  Only 14 of those remain intact today. This is really hilly, how the tiny little 3 wheeler vans make it around town amazes me. They sound like lawn mowers!  From the Piazza della Cisterna in the centre of town we wandered all over and browsed the shops.  Bought a set of condiment bottles typical of Tuscan design as a momento of the region.  Lots of cyclists in town, they must be keen because I'm not kidding about the  hills around here.  We found a shady garden at one stage and to our delight a cellist was just setting up and she entertained us with chamber music before we moved on.  Visited an amazing archaeological museum with a display of bottles and ceramics from as long ago as 16th century.  Some still have remains of herbs and minerals in them from an original pharmacy.  The combined knowledge in huge manuscripts was amazing.  Back at La Grotta I managed to put a load of washing on with Nona’s help and lots of charades.  Whatever she put in the soap dispenser must have been strong because as I hung it out later I found that all our whites are now a nice shade of blue! Eric cooked up another pasta and pancetta dish to follow the soup.

24th May

Got up early and took the Bus Rapide to Firenze. Love the fact that the bus stops just at our doorstep.  The traffic in Florence was appalling and we even managed to collect one car on the front of our vehicle at a roundabout!  Just a little ding.  From the bus terminal it’s just a short walk to the Duomo but the crowds there were massive and we didn’t stay long or consider going inside this time. 

A short diversion into the leather market meant we carried home a new belt, bag and wallet.  Moved on to the Ponte Vecchio but once again the crowds were too much for us so we found a quite Trattoria for a late lunch. 

Then we left David to his masses and made our way home to La Grotta for lamb and potato baked with rosemary from the garden. Nona only too happy to share the garden produce including about a kg of fresh cherries.  

One thing intrigues me about Tuscany – where are all the cows and sheep and horses? We’ve seen heaps of productive fields but no animals. They can’t all be in barns, or are they?  We’ve decided we would like to spend some time in Lucca and since it is on the way to Cinque Terra we might cut this stay a few days short and head there on Friday.  But Antonio and his girlfriend left in the red Alpha Romeo convertible and have been gone for 3 days now. We don’t know when they’ll be back and how to change our booking if we want to do this?  Did I mention we were fined Euro 5 today for travelling on the train with an un-validated ticket?  Oops! 

25th May

Today we had a very slow start to the day, a late breakfast and then caught the bus to Siena for the local produce market.  Saw some amazing offerings of spit roasted pig and fresh fish along with fresh vegies and bread in every shape imaginable.  The tomatoes here have amazing flavour.  Also all the usual clothes, shoes and kitchenware. The new season's colour is green, not quite bottle green but close, more window-shutter green. Managed to resist all but one blouse and then had to buy matching glass jewellery and handbag in the shopping centre!  Not such a bargain after all.  

We found just the bird book we have been looking for today so now we can start identifying all the ones we’ve been seeing around La Grotta. At last I have configured my phone for internet and MMS and Eric has found the mix he needs for Porccini risotto so a good day.  The kitchen smells divinely of rosemary on our return.  We take a walk across the farm identifying birds.

26th May

Went straight to Siena and the Museo Civico in Il Campo and browsed the frescoes and memorabilia from 1600’s on.  We were amazed, particularly by the paintings of liberation by Emmanuel Vittorio on the ceilings in the more modern section.  Very apparent how much influence the church had on all things that these days would be decided by the local council.  

Explored the streets we hadn’t yet ventured down.  You could walk any street and be intrigued by the architecture.  Managed to get a wi-fi connection for a short time in the Irish Pub but then my phone started playing up. On Eric’s connection we booked a hotel for 2 nights in Lucca.  Now we have to explain to La Grotta that we are leaving 2 days early, with Tony still not back that may take some charades!  Ah, not so bad, we learnt that Tony returns tomorrow!

27th May

On our way to the bus this morning we noted the return of the little Alpha.  Eric can have that discussion this afternoon.  
What’s the worst thing that can happen to your pedometer when you lower your pants to go to the toilet?  Yep, mine ended up underwater and its finito!  Have to trust Eric to tell me when we’ve reached 10,000 steps a day, that’s the goal you see.  Most days getting pretty close or well over.  Decided to post home our Tuscan shopping so visited the post office and managed with some difficulty (actually lots) to get the box sent.  Only 3 kg, but pretty bulky with 2 handbags inside.  Instead of going directly into the old town today we headed to an outlook near the old fort and then went into the Basilica Santa Caterina.  In contrast to the ornate cathedral, this place of worship is quite Spartan but it did have a lovely welcoming feel with the flags of all the different councils on display. Had a lovely lunch on a cafe balcony overlooking the old city.  

Walked to Il Campo for a last visit and wrote a final postcard from here.  When we first aligned ourselves with one of the 17 contrade, or districts, which competes in the Il Palio we were inclined towards the Dragons but since learning that both my knee specialist and Tony of La Grotta support the Snails we now follow them.  Besides, it probably better matches the pace we are settling into. This place must look amazing when all the supporters and their flags flock here.

Eric is now definitely ahead of me in the shopping with a second pair of shoes to his credit.  No Antonio when we get home but we are assured he will be there in the morning.

28th May

Here we are in Lucca.  We think this was a good change of plans as the place looks interesting and we were ready to move on.  I’m online at last and Eric is watching 'Italy’s Got Talent’ on the tv.  First time we’ve turned the tv on since we left Darwin. This morning Nonna rang Tony and he returned to La Grotta to sort out our account. No trouble there, just the maths a bit difficult for him at first but we got there in the end with Eric being very patient, meanwhile our bus went past and we had to settle for one an hour later but hey, we’re on Italian time and this is our last hour in La Grotta’s courtyard.  I did ask Tony about the farm animals and I think he told me that it is all too inconvenient these days for the small landowners and so all the milk and meat production is taken care of by big companies and they are not in this area.  Caught the train to Florence and the connection to Lucca.  Chatted with a couple of women from NZ and then students; one from Kuching via Melbourne, Texas and Brussels, another from Bologna who is soon to continue his studies in Finland.  What a life these guys have in front of them.  Mind you we are feeling pretty content with ours. In Lucca we found our hotel and then made our way out onto the street to investigate the old town.  

We spent the afternoon browsing and then shared a drink in the piazza before heading back for dinner, the crowds in town were growing rather than thinning.  

Have I mentioned how suitable a bidet is for hand washing clothes on the go?  Fabulous design.

29th May

Enjoyed the all inclusive breakfast at the hotel and then arranged to hire bikes for the day.  Very European in style, not quite what we are used to but we managed them and generally stayed on the right (not left) side of the road.  Actually the town is really well set up for bikes with trails all over both the old and new sections.  We thoroughly enjoyed touring along the entire wall with shady trees and stops to visit places of interest.  

The Palazzo Pfanner was once the family home of a well respected doctor; there are displays of his instruments which make you very glad not to have been a patient in the 18th century. Strolled through the lovely gardens both here and later at the shady Botanic Gardens where there are over 700 plants of medicinal value on display. Found another little sidewalk trattoria for lunch then rode the city walls in the opposite direction just because we enjoyed it so much.   Spent the afternoon updating the blog because at last we had internet connection and then had dinner where all the locals were dining just around the corner.  Enjoyed pasta with mushroom and veal. Molto bene.   Our last night in Tuscany.

30th May

After breakfast took a taxi to the station and train to Pisa.  Deposited our bags at the station and walked to the Piazza del Miracoli to once again marvel at the Leaning Tower, an archaeological project gone wrong, but making a name (and dollar) for itself. Wandered around this, the Cathedral and Baptistry but decided not to wait the extra hr to climb it once more.  No doubt the views will be much the same.  It is nice to see it all without the scaffolding that was present in 1986.  After lunch caught the train on to La Spezia which passes through Carrara, famous for its white marble, favoured by Michelangelo and other sculptors.  At first you think you are passing snowfields but as you draw closer you realise you are seeing fields of marble in vast quarries. 

Finally we get the connection to Manarola, one of the 5 villages that make up Cinque Terra.  That last leg is only 12 minutes long and you do about 10 of it in one long tunnel and then emerge with sheer rock cliffs on the right and the aquamarine Ligurian Sea to the left. A collective audible sigh is heard as everyone in the carriage is awestruck. 

My god the paths here are steep, the mountains just fall into the sea and the houses in the village are all built as if leaning into the cliffs and holding each other up.  They are connected by little pathways.  After all the stairs up and down train platforms today I have now had enough.  Found Da Paulin apartment, absolutely gorgeous with balcony just perfect for sunset overlooking the sea.   After a short rest we walked out to the point then got a few supplies for dinner and breakfast. Max-ed out the pedometer at just under 18,000 steps today, most of them up or down what’s more, but it is going to be more of the same for the next 4 days I can see. Enjoyed a beer at the bar closest to the waterfront just before sunset and then went home to share olives and cheese on our balcony. Eric cooked chicken with fennel and rice tonight, already we have decided on fresh seafood at the local tomorrow night. We note that corks are still the norm for wine bottles in Italy.  The local drop here is made by a collective of all the grapes grown on vines along the terraces, another of the ways UNESCO and the National Park are maintaining the culture and lifestyle of the area. 

31st May

Apparently in the earliest days this remote area was inhabited by a few hilltop villages connected only by paths. The people were ruled by Genoa rather than Italy and hung on despite wars, plagues and the harshest of nature’s ways including wild seas that they were afraid of. Over the years they have increased the arable land by creating close drystone terraces, almost 7000kms of them, down the hillsides.   You have to be impressed by how these people collaboratively worked to create a system that everyone could take advantage of rather than being selfish and just looking after their own plots.  It was a hard life though with landslides quite common and wild seas with poor harbours, not to mention raids by pirates.  Back in the 90s, through lack of population, and lack of interest in hard work, the terraces began to fail under pressure from the environment and the native scrub moving back in. The National Park was established in 1999 with the goals to stop degradation, provide protection for villagers against danger of landslides and re-establish the region as a wine growing one.  A careful balance between the natural environment and the archaeological value of the built terracing has been achieved.

This morning we headed out to walk the Manarola-Corniglia trail that follows the coast, short but quite difficult, but we discovered the track has been closed due to landslides so we took on the more adventurous trekking trail across the hills.  About 2 hrs later we arrived in Corniglia and took a rest and had lunch.  It was a pretty tough hike and not one to move like a mountain gazelle, but more like a heffalump with a limp, very pleased with myself for getting to the end in good shape.  So good in fact that we then took the train to Riomaggiore and walked the easy coast trail home.  One very notable good decision we have made is to not stay in Corniglia where the track from the station to the village climbs steeply over steps that switchback up the side of the cliff.  We can’t imagine how people manage to haul luggage up there. 

1st June (Guigno)

Awoke to cloudy skies and impending rain so stayed in bed and made the most of it.  Eventually decided that it was worth trying to walk at least one leg for the day so took the train to Monterosso al Mare.  This is the resort end of the area with bathing boxes, beach umbrellas and paddle boats for hire along the beach of pebbles, but all vacant today with such cloudy skies.  Its the largest of the villages because unlike the others it can be reached by car as well as train and ferry. We walked to the old end of town with its gigantic 14 metre sculpture of Neptune, God of the Sea.  He’s holding up a terrace that in the 20’s was a shell-shaped dance floor! 

Took the walking trail from here along the coast to Vernassa,  extremely tough uphill start but then very pleasant walk into this next village.  You can tell these are challenging trails when the guidebook tells you to that it will take 2 hrs to walk the 3 kms!  We were delighted with this village and had a fresh seafood lunch in the main thoroughfare.

  

Refreshed we took on the next leg as well, Vernassa to Corniglia.  Perhaps this was a bit ambitious; it was harder than expected after the morning and on top of yesterday but feels good to have it done. Celebrated with a gelato on the station platform while waiting for the train home to Manorola. My knee is swollen tonight but I’m confident it will recover, I bet our calves will be tight tomorrow though.  A bath would have been good tonight but lacking one of those, had to settle for a hot shower and hoping for a swim in the ocean tomorrow if the weather improves.  The rain held off today and it turned out to be very suitable for trekking.

2nd June 

Well today turned into one of those catch-up days where you spend a leisurely morning reading and relaxing and then take a stroll to the next village for a bite to eat. Thankfully from Manarolla you can walk to Riomaggiore without any hills, the only path that isn’t at more than 45 degrees, but even getting down to the start and back up to our apartment is a killer on the calves today.  We found some great fresh ingredients for dinner and a bottle of the local vino on special so it was well worth the effort. We actually ended up back at Manarola for lunch as it’s very crowded everywhere today, a festiva day but we haven’t been able to establish which festiva.  Eric had squid ink pasta with seafood but I elected for the less adventurous clams and mussels with pasta.  Two other questions I’m yet to get answers to.  We saw a funeral procession yesterday but I don’t know where they ended up.  Without being a sticky beak I want to know if bodies are put to sea or buried somewhere beyond the village, haven’t seen any cemeteries and can’t imagine land being available here. Also, all the fishing boats are on land, when and how are they put to sea?  We’ve seen a pulley system not in use; is this what it is used for?   I had planned to take an ocean swim after lunch but the clouds rolled in so I opted for the couch and a good book instead.  The woman who lives in the house just below us seems to have a sewing circle most afternoons where her friends come and join her on the roof for sewing, knitting or crotchet.  Today as I lay on the couch their voices entertained me just as well as any cd could as they moved from chatter, to heated argument and even song.  All of which, of course, I couldn’t understand a word of.

3rd June
It looks like it’s just going to be one of those days!  We headed out with just 3 things to achieve: post the mail, get cash for the apartment and book the train tickets for tomorrow.  The Post Office is closed due to ‘problem technica’, the ATM is not dispensing money due to ‘problem technica’ and there is a train strike until 5pm.  We head back to the apartment to make a new plan.  After a lunch where we cleaned out as much food as we could from the fridge we tried again.  Some trains are running so we made it to Monterosso, managed to book seats successfully for tomorrow and get money.  Things are looking up.  While we are there the sun is shining so Libby had that swim she’s been talking about for the last 2 days. She is almost the only one actually swimming, everyone else just stands knee deep in water and sunbakes vertically instead of the more normal horizontal position.  Perhaps that’s because the pebbly beaches get a bit too uncomfortable after awhile.  Managed to just miss 2 very quick downpours while either on the train home or in the subway. 

 On  settling the bill for our stay I was able to get some answers.  There was no festiva yesterday, I think we were just ripped-off, perhaps I shouldn’t have asked.  There is a cemetery on the outskirts of town where locals are buried so that's where they went the other day. For many years the boats did have to be man-handled in and out of the water but for the last 20 yrs they have been able to use a pulley system.  There is no commercial fishing here though, just a hobby for locals when it is quiet here - in the winter mostly.  They also like to go hunting which is good as feral pigs are a problem in the area.  He showed me some photos of the area under a blanket of snow both in 1985 and also 2002.  Also of wild storms where the ocean breakers have washed over the trail to Corniglia.  Apparently, on average, every year a couple of people are swept off and killed.  We’ve loved it here in Cinque Terra, so glad it has been preserved by the National Park structure, but we are ready to move on tomorrow.